Pretty pomegranates are worth the effort

  • By Jan Roberts-Dominguez / Herald Columnist
  • Tuesday, November 29, 2005 9:00pm
  • Life

With artichokes, the question is: Do you scrape the pulpy portion of the leaf against your bottom teeth or your uppers? Whichever style you exhibit, try modifying your behavior and you’ll realize that it must be genetic, because the pleasure simply isn’t as great.

Pomegranate eating styles are equally divided into two very specific camps. If you are content to eat the seeds one at a time as soon as they can be pried from their ivory-toned membrane, the rewards are small but frequent.

On the other hand, pomegranate seed hoarders are willing to delay gratification until they have amassed an entire pile of shimmering garnet seeds. Then, while the one-at-a-time friend looks on, the hoarder gobbles great mouthfuls of the tangy, juicy morsels, experiencing the greatest jolt of flavor.

If this is something you haven’t consciously observed, you only have another month or so left, because pomegranate season is short. But you should find plenty of them around to get you through the holiday season.

Although native to Persia originally, the pomegranates in the Northwest market come from California. When choosing, reject any pomegranates with a brownish area on the blossom end; such discoloration indicates the beginning of spoilage and off-flavor.

Storage: They can be stored for short periods of time at room temperature, uncovered, out of direct sun. For more than a week or so, refrigerate the fruit or seeds in plastic bags or containers. The seeds may also be packed into plastic bags and frozen.

Preparation: Here’s a somewhat less cumbersome method. Cut the crown end off each pomegranate; lightly score the rind lengthwise in several places. Immerse the scored fruit in a bowl of cool water for five minutes. Then, holding fruit under water, tear the sections apart with your fingers and separate the seeds from membranes; seeds will sink to the bottom, the rind and membranes will float to the top. Skim off and discard the membranes and rinds. Pour seeds into a colander, let drain and gently pat dry.

To juice: Whirl seeds in a blender or food processor, 1 1/2 to 2 cups at a time, until liquefied. Pour through a cheesecloth-lined wire strainer and let drain. Refrigerate juice for up to five days; freeze for up to six months.

Serving ideas: Sprinkle pomegranate seeds on any type of fruit salad, poultry, fish or green salad. Or garnish grilled or roasted meats. They’re also a beautiful garnish on tapioca, custard or ice cream.

Yield: Each medium-size pomegranate yields about 3/4 cup seeds or 1/2 cup juice.

Christmas decoration idea: Because of their soft red color, whole pomegranates provide beautiful accent when set against a spray of evergreens. They can also be arranged on a platter, pyramid-style, and little sprigs of evergreens tucked in between the cracks.

Syrup: Delicate in flavor and ruby red in color, pomegranate syrup is a supporting player rather than a star. As such, it is much used as a flavor-smoother and sweetener in both alcoholic and nonalcoholic drinks; and it’s also a pleasant topping for tart pineapple, peach or nectarine ice cream or sherbet.

Why make your own? Well, wouldn’t it be fun to taste the real thing?

Pomegranate syrup (grenadine)

2-3medium-large pomegranates

21/2cups sugar

1/2cup water

Cut the pomegranates open crosswise and pry out the fleshy crimson seeds (the red part is actually the pulpy envelope around a seed), using the tip of a blunt knife (or use method described above in “Preparation”). Be careful not to include any fragments of the cottony white pulp in which the seeds are embedded, as it is bitter. You should have about 2 cups of seeds.

Using a food processor or blender, chop the seeds with the sugar and water just long enough to make a rough puree. Don’t attempt to make a smooth mixture; it’s necessary only to break the pulpy membranes.

Pour the puree into an earthenware or glass bowl and cover it with a cloth. Let it stand at room temperature for three days, stirring it daily. No need to refrigerate the mixture during this phase unless the weather has turned hot (at which point, after 24 hours, you should refrigerate the puree for the remaining two days).

Line a sieve with dampened, very fine nylon net or two layers of dampened fine cheesecloth and set it over a saucepan of stainless steel or other nonreactive material. Filter the pomegranate syrup into the pot, allowing it to drip without pressing on the pulp. This will take a few hours; you can speed matters up by tying the cheesecloth lining of the sieve into a bag and suspending it above the pot after the initial flow of juice has slowed down. When all the juice has dripped through, discard the seedy pulp.

Bring the syrup to a bare simmer (180 degrees) over medium-low heat, then reduce the heat to very low and scald the syrup, using a candy/jelly thermometer and watching to be sure you keep the temperature below 200 degrees, for 3 minutes.

Skim off any foam, then funnel the syrup into a sterilized dry bottle. Let the syrup cool, then cap or cork the bottle (use a new cork only) and store it in the refrigerator.

Makes about 2 cups.

From “Fancy Pantry” by Helen Witty

Pomegranate lamb kebabs

1/2 cup pomegranate syrup (grenadine)

1/4 cup salad oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

2pounds boneless lamb shoulder or leg, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes

In a large bowl, stir together pomegranate syrup, oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and garlic. Add lamb and stir to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or until next day.

Lift meat from marinade and drain briefly (reserve marinade). Thread meat equally on about six sturdy skewers. Place skewers on a lightly greased grill 4 to 6 inches above a solid bed of medium coals (or cook under broiler in oven). Cook, turning often and basting with marinade, until meat is well browned on outside but still pink in center (10 to 15 minutes.

Makes about six servings.

From “Sunset Fresh Produce, A to Z”, by the editors of Sunset Books and Sunset Magazine

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contract her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.

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