Hikers atop Valahnukur mountain in Iceland are rewarded with 360-degree views. (Rick Steves’ Europe)

Hikers atop Valahnukur mountain in Iceland are rewarded with 360-degree views. (Rick Steves’ Europe)

Rick Steves on the raw beauty of Iceland’s fire and ice

From volcano chamber explorations to geothermal pool plunges, Iceland offers adventures like no other place.

Although we’ve had to postpone European trips because of the pandemic, I believe a weekly dose of travel dreaming can be good medicine. Here’s one of the places that’s waiting for you at the other end of this crisis.

Iceland, with cinematic scenery showcasing nature in its rawest form, thrills outdoorsy travelers. Known for the midnight sun and northern lights, this fascinating island is equally famous for its magnificent glaciers and volcanoes.

Among the country’s unforgettable experiences is a tour into a dormant volcano. The Thrihnukagigur volcano, a half-hour drive from Iceland’s capital city Reykjavik, last erupted about 4,000 years ago. When its magma drained out, a cavity big enough to hold the Statue of Liberty remained.

Today, via a pricey six-hour “Inside the Volcano” tour (which includes 2-mile hikes to and from the volcano), you can ride a lift through a squeezy opening at the volcano’s top, then 400 feet down into its vast chamber. Inside, lamps bring out the chamber’s pastel colors, and water, seeping through its ceiling, rains down lightly as you explore the bouldery floor.

For a shorter (one-hour) and much cheaper volcanic experience, you can visit Raufarholshellir, billed as “The Lava Tunnel” — a 40-minute drive from Reykjavik. This 5,000-year-old lava tube was carved by a river of molten rock that was forced to burrow deeper after its surface had hardened. When the lava drained out, it left behind an extensive tunnel covered in colorful formations.

After passing beneath a few “skylights” where the ceiling had collapsed, you enter the intact lava tube — as big as a railroad tunnel in places. Subtle lighting brings out the tube’s soft colors and fanciful features. At the turnaround point you can experience a few minutes of utter darkness when the guide shuts off the lights.

Above ground, glacier hiking is a quintessential Icelandic experience. About 10% of Iceland is covered by glaciers, and the Solheimajokull glacier on the South Coast is one of the most accessible.

There, several companies offer excursions of varying lengths and difficulty. A half-day outing with Icelandic Mountain Guides starts with a walk past an iceberg-filled lagoon to the foot of the glacier. Then the guide helps attach spiky crampons to your boots for the climb up spooky-looking canyons of ice and black ash.

Once on top, Solheimajokull is smoother and whiter. As you crunch across the ice, the guide explains how the glacier moves, where those mysterious cones of black ash come from, how gaping sinkholes appear, and how climate change is melting the ice so rapidly that Solheimajokull could disappear within a century.

Even on regular land, Iceland is a wonderland for hikers. Thorsmork — “Thor’s Woods” — is a top destination, with well-marked trails leading to thrilling views over volcanoes, glaciers and valleys. Accessible only on gravel roads that require fording rushing rivers and streams, most visitors get there aboard specially equipped, jacked-up buses.

The main reason to visit Thorsmork is the glorious hike to the top of Valahnukur mountain. Starting from the visitors complex in Husadalur Valley, the hike to the summit is less than a mile, but it’s staircase-steep in stretches and gains 900 feet in elevation.

On top, your sweat earns you a commanding view of three glacier-topped volcanoes, including the notorious Eyjafjallajokull, whose 2010 eruptions choked European air travel. Far below, the wide Markarfljot river valley sprawls to your north and the Krossa river valley to the south, their glacier-fed torrents rushing toward the sea.

For those who prefer that someone else do the hiking, horseback riding in Iceland is a special experience. The descendants of ponies brought here by Viking settlers, Icelandic horses are small, strong and docile. They’re renowned for their five gaits: Along with walk, trot and gallop, they have two extra “gears” — the tolt, which is fast and extremely smooth, and the skei, a high-speed “flying pace.”

A whale-watching cruise offers a more leisurely experience and a chance to spy the elusive whales of the North Atlantic. You can expect to see dolphins, porpoises and midsize minke whales (seen on local menus) rather than big humpback or blue whales. Several tours depart from Reykjavik, but locals say the best whale-watching is in North Iceland, from the towns of Husavik and Akureyri.

For all its ruggedness, Iceland also has its comforts — an abundance of thermal baths heated by the island’s geothermal energy. From touristy “premium” baths such as the Blue Lagoon to municipal pools favored by locals, a thermal bath is only a short drive. Imagine wrapping up a vigorous day of exploring Iceland’s magnificent outdoors with a soothing soak in 100-degree water. Aaaaahhh!

From volcano chamber explorations to geothermal pool plunges, Iceland offers adventures and activities that you can’t easily do anywhere else.

Edmonds resident Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

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