Salmon: elegant, simple

The Sunday Chef is on vacation, from work and from cooking. She asked a couple of close personal friends to fill in while she’s gone. “The Barefoot Contessa” with Ina Garten is one of her favorite cooking shows.

In “Barefoot Contessa Parties!” author Ina Garten draws from her background as a caterer and owner of the specialty food store of the book’s title, Barefoot Contessa, in East Hampton, N.Y.

This book, illustrated with color photos, promises “ideas and recipes for easy parties that are really fun,” covering all four seasons.

Garten explained in a phone interview that the name of her business was inspired by the title of a 1950s movie.

“It’s about being elegant and earthy – and since I never wear shoes it suits me perfectly.”

Garten, too, votes for preparing the food ahead when you have a summer party, rather than cooking out. It’s the time of year to serve cold dishes, and “In my experience, having catered parties for 23 years, the most wonderful parties are when the host and hostess are having fun,” she said. “I know when I do that I’m relaxed, I’m not tearing my hair out.”

For an outdoor summer lunch, Garten suggested a menu from the book centered on a main dish of Asian grilled salmon, with sauteed corn, asparagus and snap peas.

The advantage of the salmon dish is that it doesn’t have to be hot, Garten says. In fact, it’s better when it’s had time to sit, to cool down.

“It’s simple food,” Garten said. “What makes people feel good is being served a remembered flavor – but it tastes better than you expect.”

Here, it’s the marinade for the salmon that gives it a surprise taste bonus.

1 side fresh salmon, boned but skin on (about 3 pounds)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons good soy sauce

6 tablespoons good olive oil

1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

Light charcoal briquettes in a grill and brush the grilling rack with oil to keep the salmon from sticking (see note).

While the grill is heating, lay the salmon skin-side down on a cutting board and cut it crosswise into 6 equal pieces. Whisk together the mustard, soy sauce, olive oil and garlic in a small bowl. Drizzle half of the marinade onto the salmon and allow it to sit for 10 minutes.

Place the salmon skin-side down on the hot grill; discard the marinade the fish was sitting in. Grill for 4 to 5 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish. Turn carefully with a wide spatula and grill for another 4 to 5 minutes. The salmon will be slightly raw in the center, but don’t worry; it will keep on cooking as it sits.

Transfer the fish to a flat plate, skin-side down, and spoon the reserved marinade on top. Allow the fish to rest for 10 minutes. Remove the skin and serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled.

Makes 6 servings.

Note: If a charcoal grill is not available, the salmon may be grilled on a cast-iron grill on top of the stove.

Asian grilled salmon

Shopping list

For a nice summer dessert, you’ll need:

2/3-1 cup sugar, plus more for sprinkling

1 tablespoon cornstarch

2-3 nectarines

3 cups blackberries, picked over

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt