Scallops are best straight from the bay or sea

The waiter almost lost an arm, and I, one of the most incredible scallop dishes of my life.

For a food writer, it was one of those mind-etching events. An evening where everything — the food, the wine, the famous chefs, the ambiance — was bound up into one great conspiracy of perfection. An evening that stays with you for the rest of your life.

At such affairs, dish after dish after dish comes in an endless march from kitchen to diner. If you don’t pace yourself, your chances of making it to the Grande Marnier Souffle with rosy cheeks intact are nil.

Knowing this, I had picked my way delicately through the first four courses, savoring bits of limestone lettuce with Tarragon dressing and modest nibbles of the fois gras, but leaving major portions for my attentive waiter to whisk away.

Then the scallop course arrived. Fresh little mollusks had been plucked from Massachusett’s Nantucket Bay as the sun rose over the Atlantic, air-freighted cross-country, and set before us a mere eight hours later.

There were, perhaps, two dozen 1/2-inch morsels, lightly coated in a delicate wine sauce, flecked sparingly with fresh dill. The flavor, texture, everything was exquisite. I set out to savor the dish slowly, getting to know each perfect little scallop up close and personal.

Midway through the experience, while my attentions were briefly directed toward the neighbor on my right, I sensed activity over my left shoulder. The waiter was moving in on my scallops. With the instincts of a panther on prey, my left hand shot out and planted an iron-grip around the offending arm. The fork in my other hand was poised over his white-gloved hand.

I looked up into his startled eyes and smiled sweetly.

"I’m not quite through, yet," I said, slowly unwrapping my fingers from his forearm.

He smoothed the wrinkles from his jacket, bowed slightly, and retreated.

I finished my meal and the waiter kept his arm.

At the market, you’ll find two choices in scallops. The large sea scallops, caught miles out at sea, are available year-round. Tiny bay scallops that live in shallow coastal waters are at their prime in winter months (but, of course, they’re available all the time in their frozen state).

Fresh scallops that aren’t treated with any preservatives brown nicely when sauteed and have an almost sugary flavor. As they age, that sweet flavor diminishes as does the browning aspect.

Because it has become a common practice to soak shucked scallops in a tri-polyphosphate solution — which can undermine the cooking and eating quality of scallops — it’s not a bad idea to ask at the time of purchase if the scallops are preservative-free.

If you can’t get your hands on truly fresh-out-of-the-bay bay scallops, and fresh-out-of-the-sea sea scallops, then your next best option is to buy them while they’re still frozen. That way, you’ll be guaranteed a good quality offering.

Scallops and <

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mushroom saute

3tablespoons butter

3cups sliced mushrooms (about 1/4 pound)

2cups sliced celery

1 1/2cups chopped onion

About 1 1/2 teaspoons fresh dillweed, chopped (or 3/4 teaspoon dried dillweed)

3/4teaspoon salt

1/4teaspoon white pepper

2tablespoons Pernod (an anice-flavored liqueur)

2tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained

1pound bay scallops, rinsed and drained (if they seem at all slippery or "fishy")

1 2/3cup light cream

1pound of fettucini pasta (preferably spinach or herb-flavored)

Melt the butter in large skillet and saute mushrooms, celery, and onion until onions are soft and mushrooms have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Add dill, salt, pepper, Pernod and capers and continue cooking until liquid is almost evaporated. Add scallops and continue cooking until scallops begin to turn opaque, about 1 minute. Add cream and cook until cream reduces by about 1/2 and mixture thickens, about 5 minutes; adjust flavoring.

Meanwhile, cook fettucini in large pot of boiling water until tender (according to package directions). Drain, then toss with butter to coat. On each of four dinner plates, place a serving of pasta, then top with a portion of the scallop mixture. Serve immediately.

Yields 4 servings.

Note: Pernod is an essential ingredient in this recipe. The faint licorice flavor is a delicious compliment to scallops. Finely chopped fennel leaves or bulb — which also have a faint licorice flavor when cooked — would also work.

This is a twist on Manhattan chowder, made zestier by adding horseradish and cayenne sauce.

Scallop and <

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shrimp chowder

6cups homemade fish stock or canned clam juice

1(28 ounce) can chopped tomatoes in puree

4red or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and diced

2tablespoons olive oil

2onions, chopped

1/2bulb fennel, diced

2carrots, peeled and diced

6cloves garlic, minced

1cup dry white wine

1pound bay scallops

1pound prawns, peeled and deveined

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

2-3teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1tablespoon cayenne sauce

Salt to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

2tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley, for garnish

In a large stockpot over medium-high heat, bring the fish stock, tomatoes, and potatoes to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, until the potatoes are tender, set aside.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until hot. Add the onions, fennel, carrots, and garlic, cover the pan with a lid, decrease the heat to medium-low, and cook 8 to 10 minutes, or until tender. Add the wine and reduce over high heat until 1/4 cup of liquid remains, about 5 minutes. Heat the tomato mixture over medium-high heat until boiling. Add the vegetable mixture and the seafood, reduce the heat to low, and simmer just until the fish is cooked, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the lemon juice and zest, Worcestershire sauce and cayenne sauce, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve, ladle into bowls and garnish with parsley.

Adapted from "Caprial’s Soups &Sandwiches," by Caprial Pence and Mark Dowers.

Scallop with walnut and snap pea orzo

1 1/4pound scallops (either bay or sea scallops with work)

2teaspoons Herbes de Provence or Italian seasoning

8ounces orzo pasta

1-2tablespoons olive oil (or use nonstick cooking spray)

1teaspoon chopped garlic

1/2pound snap peas (or scant 1/2 pound Chinese pea pods), trimmed

1/2cup chopped walnuts, some reserved for garnish

1tablespoon basil-flavored oil

Rinse scallops and dry well. Sprinkle herbs evenly over scallops. Cook orzo according to package instructions and hold in covered pan.

Either heat some of the olive oil in a skillet or coat a non-stick skillet with the cooking spray. Saute garlic, snap peas and walnuts in the skillet over medium high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add to orzo and keep covered.

Re-coat the skillet with cooking spray or a bit of olive oil and saute the scallops over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes on each side until opaque and just barely cooked through and lightly browned.

Place the scallops on a plate with the orzo mixture and drizzle a little basil-flavored oil over the scallops before serving. Sprinkle with reserved chopped walnuts. Yields 6 servings.

Curried sea <

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scallops Oriental

1 1/2pounds large sea scallops (about 18)

1tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2teaspoons curry powder

1pound fresh broccoli florets, blanched in large pot of boiling water for 2 minutes

Salt and pepper to taste

Oriental sauce (recipe follows)

Clean and rinse the scallops in cold water; drain well. Transfer to a bowl. Add the oil and curry powder.

Coat a very large skillet with vegetable cooking spray. Heat until very hot. Add the scallops and saute for 3 to 4 minutes, until they are almost cooked. Remove the scallops and set them aside on a platter.

Add the blanched broccoli florets to the skillet with the drippings from the scallops and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, just until the broccoli is barely tender. Sprinkle with salt and pepper if desired. Place the broccoli on the platter with the scallops. Drizzle with a bit of the Oriental Sauce and serve.

Yields 6 servings.

Oriental sauce: Prepare this sauce ahead of time and keep it on hand to season grilled fish or chicken. Combined with a small amount of oil and bit of vinegar it makes an excellent dressing for green salads. In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup finely minced green onions, 2 tablespoons chopped radish, 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon Vietnamese fish sauce (available in Asian food section of most supermarkets), 2 teaspoons canola oil, 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic, 1 teaspoon finely shredded fresh ginger, 1 teaspoon sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco or other hot-pepper sauce. Keeps in refrigerator for several weeks.

Scallop pasta <

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with walnut sauce

8ounces angel hair pasta

1tablespoon olive oil

4tablespoons chopped shallots

2tablespoons chopped garlic (about 8 cloves)

1pound scallops (either bay or sea scallops)

1/4pound bay shrimp (the little shrimp that come precooked)

1/2cup finely chopped parsley

1cup fish stock or clam juice

1/2cup finely chopped walnuts

Cook the pasta according to package instructions. Heat the olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the garlic and shallots and saute gently for about 5 minutes. Add shrimp and parsley and cook about 3 minutes more or until scallops are opaque and cooked through. Add fish stock or clam juice and mix well.

Pour the scallop sauce over the pasta and toss well. Add the walnuts and toss again until noodles are well-coated. Yields 4 servings.

Bay scallops <

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with spinach <

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anisette sauce

5cups fresh spinach (lightly packed)

1tablespoon minced shallots

1teaspoon minced garlic

1/4cup butter

1/4cup chopped fresh mushrooms

Juice of half a lemon

1teaspoon flour

About 3 tablespoons anisette

3tablespoons heavy cream

Salt to taste

1pound bay scallops

Drop spinach into large pot of rapidly boiling water and blanch for about 20 seconds; remove, drain well and plunge into cold water to stop the cooking. Drain again, then chop in food processor.

Saute the shallots and garlic in the butter for about 30 seconds. Add mushrooms, then spinach and continue to cook until mushrooms are softened and have released their juice. Squeeze the 1/2 lemon over mixture, sprinkle the flour into the liquid then deglaze the pan by adding the anisette then stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan. Add the heavy cream and gently stir until a sauce is formed. Add salt to taste.

Divide the scallops evenly between 8 to 12 oven-proof large scallop shells (available in cookware shops). Top each serving with 2 to 3 tablespoons of the sauce. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes in 425 degree oven.

Yields 8 to 12 first course servings.

Adapted from "Bay and Ocean, Ark Restaurant Cuisine," by Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas.

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can send e-mail to janrd@proaxis.com or by mail at P.O. Box 634, Corvallis, OR 97339-0634.