Although some wine consumers lust after fancy labels, others relish discovering what’s inside the bottle. If you’re in the enlightened second category, you’ll find a lot to like about Bordeaux’s so-called “second label” wines. Made primarily from younger vines and overproduction, the best second-label Bordeaux are dead ringers for a Grand Vin but cost about half as much.
Because they come from the same vineyards and are made by the same winemaking team as the estate’s first wine, second-label wines are often of high quality, capturing the distinctive “taste of the soil” (that’s gout de terroir, in winespeak) of the chateau. The chief difference is that they are made to be ready to drink without the need for additional cellaring, which is hardly a disadvantage for many of us.
The following second-label Bordeaux, listed in order of personal preference, are highly recommended. Prices are approximate.
Carruades de Lafite 2002 ($44): With a heavenly Pauillac bouquet of cedar and cassis and intricately layered fruit on the palate, the 2002 Carruades de Lafite delivers the authentic Chateau Lafite-Rothschild experience at one-fourth the price of the Grand Vin.
Les Hauts de Pontet-Canet 2000 ($24): This textbook Pauillac from Chateau Pontet-Canet captures the ripe, powerful style of the great 2000 vintage at an excellent price.
Amiral de Beychevelle 2002 ($29): Impressively full-bodied fruit gives way on the finish to firm, chocolaty tannins. Drink now or age for three to five years.
Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2003/2001 ($40 to $60): The renaissance in the quality of first-growth Chateau Margaux began with the reintroduction of second-label Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux in 1978. The 2003 Pavillon Rouge, accounting for more than 50 percent of the estate’s production in that vintage, may be the best yet, followed closely by the exquisitely balanced 2001.
Alter Ego de Palmer 2003 ($36): Chateau Palmer’s brilliant young winemaker, Thomas Duroux, prefers to look at Alter Ego as a “different expression” of the terroir of the estate, rather than a second label. Insomuch as Chateau Palmer has become more muscular and powerful in recent vintages, Alter Ego could be said to offer a ready-to-drink expression of Palmer’s complex terroir. The subtle, berry-accented 2003 is superb.
Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2003 ($25 to $35): Showing even better now than winemaker Marcel Ducasse’s outstanding Chateau Lagrange, the 2003 Les Fiefs de Lagrange is delicious now and will improve with three to five years in the cellar.
Blason de L’Evangile 1998 and 2002 ($29-$39): Another triumph for the Lafite winemaking team, which took over Chateau L’Evangile in Pomerol in 1990. The perfectly proportioned 1998 Blason de L’Evangile is hard to distinguish from the otherworldly 1998 Chateau L’Evangile. The muscular 2002 Blason L’Evangile doesn’t have quite the finesse of the 1998 Blason, but the spicy blend of merlot and cabernet franc is delectable.
Clos du Marquis 2002 ($35): Chateau Leoville-Las-Cases Saint-Julien has achieved virtual first-growth status, and second-label Clos du Marquis could easily pass for a classified growth. Like Las-Cases, a joy to drink.
Chateau de Clairefont 1999 ($18): Delicately fruity with a violet-scented Margaux perfume, Prieure-Lichine’s second label offers exceptional value.
Chevalier des Lascombes 2000 ($29): Broodingly deep in color with full-bodied cabernet sauvignon flavors, this reflects the revived commitment to quality at Chateau Lascombes.
Les Tourelles de Longueville 2001/2003 ($29): With a cedary Pauillac bouquet and complex fruit, the second label of Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron is impressive in the 2001 and 2003 vintages.
Les Allees de Cantemerle 2003 ($19): A lighter version of the successful 2003 Chateau Cantemerle.
Blason d’Issan
Blason d’Issan ($25 to $35; Bordeaux) is the second label of Chateau d’Issan. Grapes that don’t go into the final blend of Chateau d’Issan are declassified into Blason d’Issan, which sells for much less.
Tastes like …A soaring bouquet of violets, red berries and vanilla, followed on the palate by intricate layers of berry fruit, with hints of fresh cedar and mocha. In other words, a classic Margaux appellation style.
Grape varieties:Although the vineyards are planted with 70 percent cabernet sauvignon and 30 percent merlot, the final percentages in the wine are set only after determining how well each variety performed that vintage.
Historical sip:Chateau d’Issan was served at the wedding of Henry Plantagenet and Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152. The chateau building dates from the 17th century and has a moat.
Geography:Vineyards are ideally positioned upon deep, gravelly soil in the prestigious Margaux appellation of Bordeaux. Neighboring vineyards include top-ranked Chateau Palmer and Premier Grand Cru Classe Chateau Margaux.
On the label:Regum Mensis Aris Que Deorum (“For the tables of kings and the altars of the gods”).
Ben Giliberti
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