Although cabernet sauvignon, merlot and other so-called Bordeaux varietals are usually thought of as winter wines, they are also excellent choices for late summer and early fall when made in a lighter, fruitier style. This less-brawny structure makes them go well with grilled burgers, steaks and other outdoor fare. Should the weather turn torrid, summer cabernets can be served lightly chilled in the refrigerator or picnic cooler.
Some recommendations (prices are approximate):
Columbia Crest 2002 Merlot Columbia Valley Grand Estates ($11; Washington): The bouquet offers Bordeaux-like notes of fresh cedar, spice and vanilla, followed on the palate by a fine balance between the ripe merlot fruit and toasty oak. Vinified to be enjoyed without further aging, this wine is best paired with beef or lamb; but because the tannins are light, it can also be enjoyed with light meats and poultry.
Big Yellow 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon “North Coast” ($11; California): It’s a bright, quaffable cabernet sauvignon with pure red fruit and cassis flavors, and a light note of clove on the finish. Though best suited as an aperitif, there’s enough complexity and body to match with poultry, grilled salmon or light meats.
Dona Paula “Los Cardos” 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon ($10 Argentina); Dona Paula “Los Cardos” 2004 Malbec ($10; Argentina): These wines are prime examples of the value offered by Argentina. The cabernet sauvignon is stylish, with cassis and herbal fruit similar to that of a Bordeaux petit chateau. Its mid-weight body makes it a great house red. The malbec is bigger, fruitier and more robust, making it a good choice for serving with grilled meats. Both are ready now.
Gascon 2004 Malbec ($12: Argentina): Accented by notes of spice, mocha and vanilla, this well-made malbec offers loads of fleshy, mouth-filling fruit. Its smooth, tannic finish makes for a fine match with steak or grilled lamb chops.
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