Spices of antiquity

  • By Judy Stanley / Herald artist
  • Tuesday, May 24, 2005 9:00pm
  • Life

“Men have traveled, as they have lived, for religion, for wealth, for knowledge, for pleasure, for power and the overthrow of rivals. Yet no very profound acquaintance with Haklut’s book is needed to discern, as he clearly discerned, the single thread of interest running through all these pilgrimages. The discovery of the new Western World followed, as an incidental consequence, from the long struggle of the nations of Europe for commercial supremacy and control of the traffic with the East. In all these dreams of the politicians and merchants, sailors and geographers, who pushed back the limits of the unknown world, there is the same glitter of gold and precious stones, the same odour of far-fetched spices.”

Sir Walter Raleigh, 1605

ANISE

Background: The plant, bearing a strong family resemblance to the members of the carrot family that includes dill, fennel, coriander, cumin and caraway, is native to the eastern Mediterranean region. It is one of the oldest known spice plants to be used both for culinary and medicinal purposes.

Flavor: Similar to fennel with a mild licorice taste.

Culinary uses: Not to be confused with star anise, which is generally used in Chinese dishes, anise is primarily associated with cakes, biscuits, confectionery and rye breads. Use it to flavor fish, poultry, soups and root vegetable dishes. Many alcoholic drinks and cordials are flavored with anise seed. One of them is Greek ouzo.

Anise is also an excellent source of iron.

Substitutes: Fennel seed or a few drops anise extract.

CARDAMOM

Background: Known to the Romans and Greeks since before the birth of Christ, cardamom is the most expensive spice in the world after saffron.

It is native to the tropical rain forests of India, Sri Lanka and China, but is grown commercially in Guatemala, Vietnam and Tanzania.

The Vikings brought cardamom back to Scandinavia from Constantinople, where it is still very popular today in Swedish breads.

Flavor: Eucalyptus with camphor and lemon undertones.

Culinary uses: The two most common uses are in the baked goods of Scandinavia and the scented coffees of the Middle East.

Use cardamom with beef, chicken, fruit soups, split pea soup, sweet potatoes, winter squash, carrots and parsnips, apple pie, pumpkin pie and baked apples.

Substitutes: Equal parts ground nutmeg and cinnamon; equal parts ground cloves and cinnamon; nutmeg or cinnamon.

CORIANDER

Background: Coriander is probably one of the first spices used by mankind, having been known as early as 5000 B.C. It was one of the first spices to be brought to America.

Native to the Middle East, it is grown commercially in Morocco and Romania today. It is a “two-for-the-price-of-one” plant; the seeds are coriander, the leaves are cilantro. One can’t be used in the place of another, however.

Flavor: Spicy with flowery, fruity undertones.

Culinary uses: The seeds are one of the ingredients in pickling spice; the powder is essential in curry powder mixtures.

Other than the products above, the most common use is in making sausage and hot dogs. It is also an ingredient of gin.

Use coriander with baked apples or pears, applesauce, ham or pork, sweet treats and minced meats.

Substitutes: Caraway seeds or cumin.

TAMARIND

Background: Believed to have originated in East Africa, tamarind now grows extensively throughout the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia and the West Indies.

Flavor: A slightly fruity aroma with a pleasant sour taste.

Culinary uses: It is not only used in many Indian dishes like curries and chutneys, but is a major ingredient in Worcestershire sauce. It is particularly good with poultry and fish.

It can be found in fibrous slabs, bottled concentrate or in the pod in Asian markets.

Steep the fruit or slab in hot water for 10 minutes, mash into a paste and pass through a sieve. The fine pulp and juice will go through, leaving behind the fibrous husk.

Tamarind is also a great polishing agent for copper and brass.

Substitutes: Blend equal parts dried apricots, prunes, dates and lemon juice; or lemon juice; or lime juice.

SAFFRON

Background: A native of the Mediterranean, saffron is now imported primarily from Spain. It takes 75,000 blossoms or 225,000 handpicked stigmas of the saffron crocus to make a single pound, which explains why it is the most expensive spice in the world, and why there are so many fakes.

Flavor: A pungent bitter-honey taste.

Culinary uses: It only takes a few threads to add saffron’s distinct yellow color and earthy aroma to Spanish paella, French bouillabaisse, Milanese risotto and many Middle Eastern dishes.

Remember a pinch of saffron goes a long way. The easiest way to use it is to simply add 5 teaspoons of water for every teaspoon of saffron. Soak the threads and mash the threads by using the back of a spoon. Add the paste to your recipe.

Substitutes: Dash of turmeric for color.

STAR ANISE

Background: Native to China and Vietnam, star anise is today grown almost exclusively in southern China, Indo-China and Japan. It was first introduced into Europe in the 17th century.

Flavor: Powerful and licoricelike, more pungent and stronger than anise.

Culinary uses: Star anise is used in the East as anise seed is used in the West. It works well with meat and poultry dishes, as well as pork and duck. It is added to fruit compotes and jams and is the main flavoring ingredient in anisette liqueur. It is an ingredient in the mixture known as Chinese Five Spice.

It has been used for centuries by the Chinese as a breath freshener and digestive. It is also used in cough medicines.

Substitutes: Anise seed plus a pinch of allspice; a few drops of anise extract or Chinese Five Spice. Weaker flavor: 1 crushed star anise equals 1/2 teaspoon crushed anise seed.

e use innumerable spices in our cooking today. Pepper, paprika, cinnamon, sesame seeds and cumin are five of the top 10 spices found in American cupboards. The United States is the world’s largest importer and consumer of spices used to season food products. Americans buy more and more spices each year. Spice consumption has risen 126 percent since 1961.

With more than 40 spices and aromatic seeds to choose from, I have chosen six of the least common spices to introduce you to today. Before I give you information on them, let’s take a short look at the history of spices.

HISTORY

Spices have been around since the days before recorded history. Archaeologists believe that by 50,000 B.C. primitive man had discovered parts of certain aromatic plants helped make food taste better. It’s a good bet that he learned to wrap meat in leaves before he tossed it into the fire pit to keep the dirt and ashes off of it. When it was done and he tasted it, he was surprised to find it tasted better. Mankind had learned the art of seasoning.

As the millenniums rolled by, evidence was found that cultures in the Middle East were using spices thousands of years ago. The ancient pyramids contain hieroglyphs demonstrating the use of spices. The Scriptures of the Bible mention how important spices were to the lives of people. The “gift of kings,” frankincense and myrrh, were given to the infant Jesus. Caravans of camels from the East carried spices west to Egypt.

By 2000 B.C. the Arabs held the spice monopoly and kept it for more than 2,000 years. Alexandria, Egypt, became the greatest spice-trading port of the Eastern Mediterranean in 80 B.C. The Venetians and Genoese bought the spices, shipped them back to Italy and sold them to the very rich.

The crusaders stimulated interest when they brought spices back to Europe. In the Middle Ages, spices were so popular that they continued to demand high prices. A pound of ginger was worth the price of a sheep. In the 11th century, taxes were paid in pepper, and a sack of it was worth a man’s life.

In 1298, Marco Polo brought back stories of the spices of China and the Europeans began trading directly with the Orient. What began then was a race by the major European powers to control the market.

It was spices that lured men to the discovery of the New World. Christopher Columbus was on a quest for spices when he discovered America in 1492. What he found was the American capsicum (pepper) plant.

In 1797, Capt. Jonathan Carnes of Salem, Mass., returned from Sumatra with first large pepper cargo and put the United States in the world spice trade. Those trading endeavors stopped in 1873 when piracy in the Java Sea and China Sea made it too dangerous to continue.

California began growing mustard seeds in 1870, gradually adding more spices for market. Today, approximately 190,000,000 pounds of aromatic products are grown in the United States, with California the leader.

Domestic spices include capsicum peppers, paprika; such herbs as basil, tarragon, mint, parsley, sage and marjoram, and seeds such as mustard, dill, fennel and sesame. Dehydrated vegetable products – onions, garlic, chives, shallots, bell peppers, parsley and mixed vegetable flakes – account for a high percentage of that amount.

SPICE STORAGE TIPS

Store spices in a cool, dark place. Humidity, light and heat will cause spices to lose their flavor more quickly. Although the most convenient place for your spice rack may be above your stove, moving your spices to a different location may keep them fresh longer.

As a general rule, ground spices will retain their best flavors for a year. Whole spices may last for three to five years.

When possible, grind whole spices in a grinder or with a mortar and pestle just before using. Toasting or dry-roasting whole spices in a dry skillet over medium heat before grinding will bring out even more flavor.

Storing spices in the refrigerator is not recommended because of the high humidity. To keep large quantities of spices fresh, store them in the freezer in tightly sealed containers.

If you only need a small amount of a certain spice, buy it in the bulk food section of your local market. That can also be cheaper than buying a whole jar of a spice that might get relegated to the back of the cupboard and forgotten.

MEDICINAL USES

All of the spices I am featuring have been used for medicinal as well as culinary purposes.

Anise and star anise are still used in parts of Europe, the Middle East and India as a breath freshener and digestive aid. Anise and cardamom have also been known since antiquity as excellent aids for flatulence.

Anise, star anise and cardamom are all mild expectorants, often used in cough mixtures and lozenges.

Coriander is a diuretic, it may reduce cholesterol and improve eyesight, and aids in digestion and with flatulence. It is also a strong antibacterial.

Tamarind is considered a mild laxative and digestive. It is used to treat bronchial disorders. Gargling with tamarind water is recommended for a sore throat. It is antiseptic and often used in eye baths or for the treatment of ulcers.

Large dosages of saffron can be fatal. It has been recognized in home remedies as an aphrodisiac, an antibacterial, and useful in the treatment of liver, urinary and menstrual disorders, and as anti-depressant.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Life

Kyle Parker paddles his canoe along the Snohomish River next to Langus Riverfront Park on Thursday, May 8, 2025 in Everett, Washington. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Tip to Tip: Kyle Parker begins his canoe journey across the country

The 24-year-old canoe fanatic started in Neah Bay and is making his way up the Skykomish River.

Photo courtesy of Historic Everett Theatre
The Elvis Challenge takes place Saturday at the Historic Everett Theatre.
A&E Calendar for May 8

Send calendar submissions to features@heraldnet.com. To ensure your item is seen by… Continue reading

Photo provided by Subaru U.S. Media Center
Subaru Adds Bronze And Onyx Trims to 2025 Ascent

Three-Row Family SUV Delivers Equal Parts Safety And Comfort

The 2025 Hyundai Santa Fe Hybrid SUV (Provided by Hyundai).
2025 Hyundai Santa Fe Hybrid evokes outdoor adventure

Boxy styling leaves lots of room for gear. A refined ride ensures comfort around town.

The 2025 Toyota Sienna minivan in the top-level Platinum grade (Provided by Toyota).
2025 Toyota Sienna maintains reputation for fuel efficiency

Every model in the minivan’s lineup has a hybrid powertrain.

An autumn-themed display at Wagner Jewelers in Marysville. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Shine bright with Snohomish County’s top jewelry finds

Three dazzling shops where elegance, craft, and sparkle come together.

The 2025 Lexus TX 350 is a three-row luxury SUV. It’s offered in Base, Premium, Luxury, and F Sport Handling grades (Provided by Lexus).
2025 Lexus TX 350 welcomes new F Sport Handling model

Unique exterior highlights, a glass roof and sport-tuned suspension are among the attractions.

Hybrid Touring Photo Provided by Subaru U.S. Media Center
2025 Subaru Forester Hybrid Increases Fuel Economy And Range

Sixth-Generation Model Receives Complete Refresh

Image from Pexels.com
Top 3 Cannabis Shops You’ll Love in Snohomish County

Looking for quality products and good energy? Let’s discover the top spots.

Image from Canva.com
Chic & unique: The top 3 boutiques in Snohomish County you need to visit

From trendy finds to timeless pieces, discover the hidden gems that are redefining local fashion.

Image from Canva.com
Find your next favorite read in Snohomish County

Explore three of the finest bookshops where stories and community come together

Image from Canva.com
Say “I Do” to these stunning wedding venues

From rustic barns to elegant halls, discover where love stories in Snohomish County begin.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.