EVERETT — Amid a burst of flames from the grill, The Original Roadhouse Grill opened a few weeks ago in a new building near Highway 99 and Airport Road.
The chain restaurant’s roadhouse theme includes tossing your peanut shells on the floor and drinking from a mason jar. Wait staff regularly break into a line dance and wear jeans and T-shirts. It’s a casual place — maybe a little too casual. During my meal, a restaurant employee leaned over the table she was cleaning and exposed more of her backside than I needed to see. Twice.
As if that wasn’t revealing enough, when our server came to take our drink order, I asked what porters she had on tap. She didn’t know what a “porter” was and still didn’t know the answer after my friend explained, “dark beer.” Without further discomfort, I ordered a Guinness, which came in a bottle, and my friend requested a house specialty — strawberry lemonade — in a canning jar, its rim coated with sugar. My friend said it was good, but I found it to be a little too sweet.
The menu continues the restaurant’s theme with grilled chicken, ribs, steaks, salmon and burgers in categories such as “Short Hauls,” “Fifth Wheels” and “Extra Cargo.” Some interesting items are “Texas Egg Rolls,” which are cream cheese-stuffed jalapenos deep fried in a wonton wrapper then served with chili-laced jelly for dipping ($6.99), and sweet potato-pecan pie ($3.99).
For our recent Sunday dinner, my friend ordered one of the specialty dishes — bourbon tri-tip ($16.99) and added grilled mushrooms and onions (99 cents each). I selected the “Whiskey River salmon” ($16.99). Our dinners came with small rolls brushed with honey butter and a choice of salad, baked or mashed potato, rice pilaf, steamed broccoli or grilled vegetables. We both asked for dinner salad and baked potato. The salads were generous servings of iceberg and romaine lettuce with carrot strips, chopped tomatoes, shredded cheese and large red onion slices. Our baked potatoes were served with all the toppings, and everything was fresh.
About halfway through our salad course, a different server interrupted our dinner and tried to give us someone else’s order.
My friend’s tri-tip was grilled to his request and had a robust bourbon glaze. This cut is roasted overnight, unlike the steaks and ribs, and comes out fork tender. But we found it too tender because the middle portion of the cut was so soft it lacked texture. The glaze for the salmon steak combines whiskey, garlic, ginger and soy sauce and it gave my filet a wonderful flavor, but the salmon was overgrilled and dry.
If you like places such as Chili’s, Applebee’s and Red Robin, you’ll probably enjoy The Original Roadhouse Grill. But wait until the staff has time to buy better fitting jeans at back-to-school sales and gets a little more training before you visit.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.
@1. Body Copy:
Original Roadhouse Grill
11804 Evergreen Way, Everett; 425-355-3550
Specialty: American favorites
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Vegetarian: one entree salad and some side dishes
Price range: $8 to $22
Liquor: full bar
Reservations: recommended for large parties
Credit cards: Master Card, Visa
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