Sweet surprises in Bruges

Belgians brag that they eat as much as the Germans and as well as the French. Sandwiched between Germany and France, little Belgium is famous for waffles, fries, chocolate and beer, but it has no earth-shattering sights. No wonder many travelers don’t even consider a stop here. But those who do, remark that the quaint village of Bruges is among Europe’s best-kept secrets. With canals, gilded architecture, exquisite art and stay-awhile cafes, Bruges is a joy.

Bruggians are connoisseurs of fine chocolate. While Godiva is the best big brand, there are plenty of smaller, family-run places in Bruges that offer exquisite handmade creations.

Perhaps Bruges’ smoothest and creamiest chocolates can be found at Dumon’s chocolate shop. Madam Dumon and her children make their top-notch chocolate daily and sell it fresh. The Dumons don’t provide English labels because they believe it’s best to describe their chocolates in person.

Locals and tourists alike flock to The Chocolate Line for their “gastronomique” varieties – unique concoctions such as Havana cigar (marinated in rum, cognac and Cuban tobacco leaves – so therefore technically illegal in the United States), lemon grass, ginger (shaped like a Buddha), saffron curry (a white elephant), and spicy chili. My fave: sheets of chocolate with crunchy roasted cocoa beans.

Bruges’ new Chocolate Museum explains that, in the ancient Mexican world of the Mayas and the Aztecs, chocolate was considered the drink of the gods (it’s no surprise to me). After lots of information about the production of truffles, hollow figures, and chocolate bars, the museum ends in the demonstration room, where you get to have a taste (www.choco-story.be).

Bruges, like the rest of Belgium, has Europe’s best beer experts. The happy gang at the Straffe Hendrik Brewery gives entertaining, informative tours. They’ll tell you that “the components of the beer are vitally necessary and contribute to a well-balanced life pattern. Nerves, muscles, visual sentience and a healthy skin are stimulated by these in a positive manner.” Tours include a beer, as well as a trip to their great rooftop panorama (www.halvemaan.be).

Be sure to try Belgian (not French) fries. They taste so good because they’re deep-fried twice – once to cook, and once to brown. The natives eat them with mayonnaise, not ketchup. Atkins it ain’t.

After a day or two of beer, fries, chocolate and waffles (with powdered sugar or whipped cream), you’ll probably be ready to get up and waddle around. It’s handy that the other big Belgian pastime – other than eating – is biking. While Bruges’ sights are close enough for easy walking, the town is a treat to bike through. And a bike quickly gets you into the dreamy lanes that lack any hint of tourism.

Take a peaceful evening ride through the back streets and around the outer canal past the windmills. Rent a bike for the duration of your stay. It’s the way the locals get around in Bruges, and a good way to work up a hunger for the next round of decadent treats.

Rick Steves of Edmonds (425-771-8303, www.ricksteves.com) is the author of 27 European travel guidebooks including “Europe Through the Back Door” (published by Avalon) and host of the public television series “Rick Steves Europe.” The third season airs this week on KCTS, featuring the “Belgium: Brussels and Bruges” show. This week’s schedule:

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.