Today, chestnuts boasting of more-open buyers

PORTLAND, Ore. — The chestnut business is booming.

"People are really very educated and very interested so the market is really increasing," saids chestnut grower Sandy Bole, of Ladd Hill Orchards, Sherwood, Ore.

Her 10-year-old orchard began bearing fruit five years ago and she’s seen a big change in the past three years. Early attempts to sell to local markets were daunted by merchants who wanted only imported nuts from Europe or Asia.

This year, those same local merchants were placing orders Oct. 1, the opening of the three-month long season, and Ladd Hill now ships to 26 states, Bole said.

"I’d say it’s a booming industry," said Sandra L. Anagnostakis, an agricultural scientist with the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station in New Haven.

Anagnostakis has seen a steady growth in interest over the last decade.

"I think it’s a Web phenomenon," she said, adding that she gets e-mails every day from people inquiring about growing chestnut trees.

"The West Coast people are planting larger acreages in general than the people in the East," said Anagnostakis, who is also the international registrar for chestnut cultivars for the International Horticultural Organization.

She said about 25 types of eating chestnuts are now being grown in the United States.

Growers are scattered throughout Oregon and Washington, with a large concentration in northern California.

Legend has it that chestnut forests were once so plentiful that a squirrel could hop on chestnuts trees from from Maine to Georgia without ever touching the ground. A blight that began in the late 1900s wiped out the East Coast forests by the mid-20th century. The blight stopped at the Rockies, which is why the West Coast still has some original trees.

A trio of recipes for the home cook to try shows the versatility of the chestnut. Remember that although the season for fresh nuts ends in December, dried or canned chestnuts are available year-round.

This flavorful, winter soup has become a favorite at Ladd Hill Orchards in Sherwood, Ore.

Chestnut leek and fennel soup

Kuri kimpira (Savory soy-glazed chestnuts)

Prepare chestnuts: With a short, sharp knife, cut the flat side of each chestnut by inserting the point of the knife near the point of the chestnut and rotating the knife to cut a semicircular slash in the outer skin.

Place chestnuts and 2 quarts of water in a large saucepan over medium high heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and simmer 15 minutes. Drain and return to warm pot. Peel off both layers of skin, cool and refrigerate up to three days or continue with next step.

In a nonstick medium-sized frying pan, warm sake and ginger over medium heat until sake boils; reduce to about half of original volume. Add salt, sugar and soy sauce and cook until syrupy. Add chestnuts and roll around gently in sauce, then cook over low heat until moisture is almost all evaporated and immediately remove from heat. Discard ginger and serve chestnuts warm or cooled.

Makes four servings.

Recipe from Maya H. Klein, Portland, Ore., cooking instructor

Chocolate makes a winning contribution to a chestnut dessert.

Chocolate chestnut truffles (Tartufi di castagne)

Break up the chocolate and place it in the top half of a double boiler. Set over a saucepan partly filled with simmering water. Heat, stirring occasionally, until smooth and melted. Remove the bowl and let it cool.

In a food processor or blender, puree the chestnuts with 2 tablespoons of the cream and the rum until very smooth. Stir in the chocolate and just enough cream to make a soft consistency that barely holds a shape.

Spread the cocoa on a plate. Drop a tablespoonful of the chestnut mixture into the cocoa. With a fork, turn it until coated. If the mixture gets too soft to handle, refrigerate it briefly. Transfer the truffle to a paper candy cup or place it on a sheet of wax paper on a cookie sheet. Repeat with the remaining chestnut mixture.

When all the truffles have been shaped, refrigerate them until firm, at least 1 hour. Transfer the truffles to an airtight container. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To make ahead: Truffles keep well for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. They can also be frozen for up to 1 month. If frozen, defrost in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

Makes about 3 dozen truffles.

Recipe from Michele Scicolone’s "A Fresh Taste of Italy"