True curry uses leaves, not powder

Curry. The word is almost meaningless.

In this country, it usually refers to a dish flavored with curry powder or something served at an Indian restaurant, as if all Indian dishes with spicy sauce could be lumped into a single category. This, of course, is not the case.

In fact, authentic Indian cuisine never involves the prepackaged combination of spices known as curry powder. In southern India, however, many dishes make liberal use of curry leaves. Despite their name, these leaves taste nothing like curry powder.

Curry leaves are small, about the size of a slim basil leaf, with a smooth surface and pointy shape. They add a slightly peppery flavor to all kinds of dishes, from stews to yogurts, from soups to sauces.

Just as kaffir lime leaves add a special touch to Thai food, and epazote distinguishes certain Mexican dishes, curry leaves are a signature flavoring in south Indian cooking.

Once unobtainable here, fresh curry leaves are available year-round in almost every Indian market, and surprisingly, they’re less expensive than more common herbs in supermarkets.

They keep longer too, and can be frozen. But the flavor dissipates over time, so once picked, curry leaves should be used as soon as possible. For enthusiastic cooks, the best idea is to plant a curry leaf tree and pluck as needed.

The leaves grow in neat rows on either side of stems, which are usually discarded (although whole sprigs are sometimes added to sauces). The leaves don’t wilt when cooked.

Unlike bay leaves, curry leaves are edible. They are considered by some people to have medicinal benefit, especially for dark-haired people. In his book "Home Remedies," T.V. Sairam writes that curry leaves "strengthen the body, increase appetite, eliminate body heat and fever. They impart brightness to the eyes and guarantee blackness of hair."

You’ll find curry leaves regularly in dishes at southern Indian restaurants. South Indians typically fry mustard seeds, curry leaves and chilies together to add when a dish is almost finished. An example of this preparation is kottu, a dal soup.

This light, simple soup contains shredded cabbage and green pepper.

The dal is split yellow channa dal, a lentil-like dried legume available in all Indian markets.

Curry leaves are used in other parts of India too, especially the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat. Gujarati vegetarians like to dip their roti, a flat bread, into a bowl of soupy potatoes fragrant with spices, said Ravi Merchant of Patel Brothers, who is from Gujarat.

In the recipe for this dish, bateta shaak, curry leaves, mustard seeds and other spices are fried, then simmered with potatoes to make a dish with plenty of sauce. A heady dose of ground coriander and cumin and a sprinkling of cilantro make for pungent flavor.

But if you’ve ever traveled to India and eaten this sort of food, you’ll recognize at once that it is authentic. Roti and nan breads for dipping are stocked in Indian markets. Pita or any other firm bread can be substituted.

There is no substitute for curry leaves, however, so if you’re interested in trying some Indian cooking and can’t get your hands on curry leaves, go ahead and try the dish, just leaving out the curry leaves.