Until someone invents year-round summer, the time to enjoy local sun-ripened tomatoes is now. They are truly one of the season’s blazing triumphs – plump and colorful to the eye, aromatic and juicy to the other senses.
To say this blessing from nature represents the best of summer is hardly an overstatement. Especially in Oregon, where they seem particularly intense and sweet in character. Sort of like my sweetie.
Well, like a good mate, Pacific Northwest summers and the tomatoes they produce should never go to waste. I’ll leave the social directing up to you, but the culinary aspects of tomato appreciation in these final weeks of summer are right up my alley.
My favorite short-term approach hasn’t changed in umpteen years: two slices of a whole-grained bread, toasted to perfection, slathered with a silky layer of mayonnaise then piled high with tender sheets of lettuce, crisp ribbons of bacon, and thick slices of juicy tomato still warm from the afternoon sun.
One of my favorite treatment for preserving summer tomato flavor for later is to dry them. Home-dried tomatoes are a superior product compared to store-bought. And because they’re a fraction of the cost – as long as the tomatoes are coming out of your own garden – you’re more inclined to find uses for them beyond the obligatory toothpick appetizer and sandwich garnish.
Dried tomato tips:
* Obviously, the meatier the tomato, the better they are to dry. “Roma” or “Italian” styles are preferred. But regular slicers, beefsteak, and even little cherry and golden pear tomatoes are good candidates. Just make sure the little guys are halved, and the bigger specimens are quartered or sliced lengthwise, from stem to stern.
* Tomatoes packed in olive oil are safe to store at room temperature as long as you have not added any moist, low-acid ingredients such as fresh garlic or fresh herbs. Dried garlic and dried herbs are perfectly safe. But if you want to include fresh, moist garlic and herbs, you must refrigerate the jars.
* Whether you’re using a food dehydrator or your oven to dry tomatoes, you’ll need to re-position the trays/baking sheets every few hours to encourage even drying.
* The other factor to consider to achieve a thoroughly dried tomato is its thickness. Tomatoes contain pockets of thick, juicy meat, which is always the last portion to dry. During the drying, I police my batch and when I encounter one that has an especially plump portion, I either squash it with my fingers or pierce it with a knife to allow moisture to escape.
* Although I like to season my tomatoes – sometimes just with salt, other times, with salt and dried herbs – it isn’t necessary from a food safety standpoint. But I do think the flavor is richer when a tiny bit of salt is used.
* Unlike most recipes you’ll encounter for dried tomatoes, I slosh each piece in a saucer of vinegar before storing in olive oil. This maneuver seems to preserve the oil so it is less likely to go rancid during long-term storage.
* For a wonderful pesto-style spread, blend together about 1 cup of pesto with 1/2 cup of oil-packed dried tomatoes (drain them before adding to the blender or food processor) with 2 to 3 tablespoons of Balsamic vinegar. Run the motor until the tomatoes are finely chopped, but flecks are still visible. Will keep, refrigerated, for several weeks, or frozen for many months.
7-8pounds of firm, ripe Italian-style tomatoes
1tablespoon dried seasoning (such as an Italian blend, or a mixture of dried basil, oregano and thyme), optional
2teaspoons salt
Red or white wine vinegar (see note)
About 11/4 cups extra-virgin olive oil
Rinse the tomatoes and dry them. Cut out the stem and scar and the hard portion of core. Halve the tomatoes if they are less than 2 inches long; quarter them if they are larger. With the tip of a knife or your index finger, scrape out most of the seeds without removing the pulp.
Arrange the tomatoes, cut surface up, either on drying racks (if using a food dehydrator) or on nonstick cookie sheets (if drying in a conventional oven). Combine the dried herbs if using, with the salt, and sprinkle a small amount over the surface of each tomato.
Proceed with drying, as described by the manufacturer for your food dehydrator, or by using the oven method as described below. The tomatoes will not all dry at the same rate. As they reach the right degree of dryness, remove them from the oven or dehydrator. Dip them into a saucer of vinegar, shake off the excess, and pack in the olive oil. Make sure that no bits of tomato protrude from the oil because those portions will darken.
As the jar(s) are filled, cap each one tightly and shelve it at cool room temperature for at least a month before serving the tomatoes. After removing the tomatoes from the jar, add more oil, if necessary, to keep the remaining tomatoes covered. Dried tomatoes stored in oil will keep for months and months at room temperature.
Yields about 1 pint.
Oven-drying method: Bake in 170 degree oven for about 3 hours. Leave the oven door propped open about 3 inches to allow moisture to escape. After 3 hours, turn the tomatoes over, cut side down, and press flat with your hand or a spatula. Continue to dry, turning every few hours and gently pressing flatter and flatter, until the tomatoes are dried.
This procedure may take about 12 hours, but often takes a significantly shorter amount of time, depending on the moisture content of the tomatoes.
Avoid over-drying, since tomatoes will actually become brittle and crisp if dried too extremely. On the other hand, make sure they are dried to the point of being “leathery” when manipulated; if not dried enough, the tomatoes will mold at room temperature.
Note on vinegar: I’ve tried several methods, but the vinegar treatment is the difference between a good dried tomato and a great one. That extra bit of acid acts as a preservative, ensuring that your olive oil stays fresher longer (by months and months).
Avoiding the oil: Once the tomatoes are dried, simply store them in airtight jars, plastic bags or containers, and keep them in a cool, dry, dark place for up to a year. Dried tomatoes can also be frozen. Dried tomatoes not stored in oil can be snipped into pieces and added directly to soups, stews, and sauces. But for some recipes, you’ll need to rehydrate them by soaking them in boiling water for 2 to 4 minutes; just long enough to soften. Then drain and pat dry.
Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contract her by email at janrd@proaxis.com.
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