“The Simpler the Better” is a great slogan to work with in the kitchen. Chef and food writer Leslie Revsin has given the theme its most practical dimension by making it the title of a series of cookbooks packed with mouthwatering easy recipes.
“Sensational Italian Meals” (Wiley, 2005, $17.95 paperback), one of her newest, written with Rick Rodgers, aims to help the cook get all the flavor and depth of Italian cooking, cooking from scratch with common ingredients – without having to spend hours and hours to get a great dish on the table.
Here’s an example to try, a quick risotto made with arborio rice. It’s based on a recipe from her friend and cookbook author Lora Brody, Revsin says, and does not include cheese, respecting the Italian rule of not serving cheese with fish.
“But since arborio rice has a lot more starch than regular long-grain rice,” she says, “the risotto’s ‘sauce’ will still have the creamy body that is the hallmark of risotto, in this case helped by the addition of rich olive oil.
“The secret to this dish is tuna packed in olive oil, not vegetable oil or water.” Start to finish, the dish takes about 30 minutes.
1large ripe tomato
1large garlic clove
16-ounce can solid light tuna in olive oil
2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1cup Italian arborio rice
2cups bottled clam juice
Cut tomato in half and squeeze out and discard seeds. Cut into 1/2-inch dice. Chop garlic. Drain tuna, reserving oil. Flake tuna with a fork and set aside. Heat oil from tuna with extra-virgin olive oil in a 3- to 31/2-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, stirring frequently, about 1 minute.
Add rice and cook, stirring frequently, until it starts to look white, 2 to 3 minutes. Increase heat to high and gradually stir in clam juice and 1 1/2 cups water. Bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally so rice doesn’t stick to bottom of pot. Reduce heat to low and cover.
Cook until barely al dente, about 11 minutes. Stir in tuna and tomato and cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, until they heat through, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve hot with grinds of pepper over top.
Makes 4 to 5 servings as a first course.
Variation: White wine is often used in risotto for some of the liquid. If you like, substitute 1/2 cup dry white wine for 1/2 cup broth.
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