Of Washington’s 14 federally approved American Viticultural Areas, one stands out as the most distinctive and perhaps the most fascinating.
The Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley is in the Columbia Basin near the towns of George and Quincy. Approved in 2012, the region is relatively cool compared to the surrounding Columbia Valley, known for its arid setting and soil types.
It is is part of the Channeled Scablands, an area carved and shaped by the ancient Ice Age floods some 12,000 years ago. There are about 30 lakes in the area, hence the name. Very little precipitation falls here each year, about six inches, and the AVA boundaries range from 570 feet elevation along the Columbia River to 1,912 feet in the Frenchman Hills.
This cool region and its caliche soils allows for growing grapes that make for distinctive wines. Riesling, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc from the Ancient Lakes are particularly interesting, as is riesling from Germany’s Rheingau, chardonnay from Chablis in the Burgundy region of France or New Zealand sauvignon blanc from the South Island.
Here are examples we have tried recently from the region. Ask for them at your favorite wine shop or contact the wineries directly.
Cave B Estate Winery 2017 Cave B Vineyards Viognier, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, $27: Freddy Arredondo, who trained at Walla Walla Community College’s vaunted winemaking program, works with his family’s plantings to produce classic viognier aromas of peach, nectarine and pear, with flavors to match. This wine shows off bright ripe fruit, which creates the perception of sweetness in this dry wine, with a delightfully full mouthfeel and spot-on acid to balance.
Succession Wines 2015 Familigia Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, $39: We don’t usually associate the cool Ancient Lakes region around the Columbia Basin town of Quincy with red wines, but fruit from Familigia Vineyard is an exception. This cab franc is a classic with notes of Rainier cherries, pencil shavings and hints of sweet herbs followed by flavors of ripe black cherry and ripe plum on the palate. It’s all backed by nicely managed tannins that are smooth through the lingering finish.
Milbrandt Vineyards 2016 Evergreen Vineyard The Estates Chardonnay, Ancient Lakes of the Columbia Valley, $22: Butch Milbrandt and his winemaking team show remarkable consistency with their reserve-style chardonnay produced in 100 percent oak, with 20 percent of it in new barrels from France. That oak shows marvelous integration, offering a theme of sweet lime and lemon bars, backed by mango and fresh pineapple. On the midpalate, there’s complexity to its crispness that yields to almond paste for a deliciously rounded finish.
Jones of Washington 2017 Rosé of Syrah, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley, $14: Each year, this ranks as one of the most consistently delicious pink wines coming out of Washington, thanks to the deft touch of winemaker Victor Palencia. Opening with alluring aromas of black raspberry and cherry, leading to flavors of plum, red currants and blackberry, it’s backed by bright acidity, a touch of tannin and highlighted by purity of fruit.
Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman operate Great Northwest Wine, an award-winning media company. Learn more at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.