When grilling vegetables, use the freshest produce

The grill isn’t just for meat. Vegetables are also right at home cooked above a hot layer of coals. The smoke lends a unique flavor to vegetables, and the high heat of the grill draws out their natural sugars, caramelizing their surface for an irresistible bite.

Add a punch of flavor with a marinade, serve with an array of sauces, and grilled vegetables are vibrant and aromatic enough to stand on their own as an appetizer or main course.

From greens to dense roots, it is possible to grill almost any vegetable. The key is to take special care in grilling and to use the freshest produce available.

As vegetables travel from the field to the market, they can lose moisture, changing them from crisp and firm to shriveled and soft. Farmers markets and farm stands, grocery stores that feature local produce, and homegrown gardens are often the best sources for fresh vegetables. Ideally, vegetables should be firm and unblemished with bright colors. Attached leaves should be full, not limp or wilted, and root ends, if any, should be dry.

Dan Turgeon, professor in culinary arts at The Culinary Institute of America, offers these tips when preparing vegetables for the grill:

“Give them a good rinse and allow them to dry well. It is especially important for vegetables to be dry if they are going to be marinated before grilling. Parboil denser vegetables to help speed their cooking time. Place them in boiling salted water, or steam them, until they are slightly tender.

“Shortening a vegetable’s time on the grill also improves its texture and flavor, keeping it from scorching and drying out on the outside before fully cooking on the inside,” he said.

To make smaller items such as cherry tomatoes ready for the grill, thread them on skewers to keep them from falling through the cooking grate. This also works well for quartered onions. Use toothpicks or skewers to pin the layers together so they won’t fall apart while cooking and turning.

Skewers may be bamboo, wood or metal. Soak bamboo or wooden skewers in cool water for at least 30 minutes so they won’t ignite on the grill. Metal skewers do not require any special treatment, but be careful not to touch them while they are still hot.

Most marinades contain oils, and if too much drips onto the burner or coals, it could cause a flare-up. To prevent this, shake excess marinade from the vegetables before placing the items on the grill. If you are not using a marinade, brush a light coating of oil on the vegetables or directly on the cooking grate to keep the food from sticking.

The following recipes for a colorful vegetable platter and three tasty sauces inspired by Mediterranean traditions are from The Culinary Institute of America’s “Grilling” cookbook (Lebhar-Friedman, 2006, $35).

Together they provide a feast that the editors of the book call “a vegetarian’s dream.”

3artichokes

1/2lemon

2tablespoons lemon juice

4teaspoons salt

3fennel bulbs, trimmed and quartered

18baby carrots, peeled

18asparagus stalks, trimmed and peeled (see note)

3zucchini, trimmed and halved lengthwise

1/2cup olive oil

3tablespoons minced garlic

1teaspoon ground black pepper

12new potatoes, parboiled and halved

2red onions, quartered

18mushrooms, trimmed

2red peppers, cored and quartered

2yellow peppers, cored and quartered

1cup Italian-style sauce (recipe follows)

1cup Greek-style sauce (recipe follows)

1cup North African-style sauce (recipe follows)

Remove the tough outer leaves from the artichokes. Cut the stem away from the artichoke, leaving about 1 inch of the stem still attached. Cut the artichokes in half and remove the choke. Rub the cut side of the artichoke with the lemon half.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Add the artichokes and simmer until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the artichokes and let cool to room temperature.

Bring a second large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 2 teaspoons of salt and then, working in batches, add the fennel and carrots, cooking until partially tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain all the cooked vegetables well and let cool slightly. Score the flesh of the zucchini with the tines of a fork.

Combine the olive oil, garlic, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper in a large bowl. Add all the par-cooked vegetables, the asparagus, the zucchini, the potatoes and the onions, and toss to coat. Marinate the vegetables in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.

Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.

Grill all the vegetables on both sides until tender but not mushy. Place the vegetables on the grill in the following order: red peppers, yellow peppers, zucchini, carrots, fennel, onions, mushrooms, potatoes, asparagus and artichokes. Grill the vegetables, turning as necessary, until they begin to take on color and are cooked through, about 8 to 12 minutes, depending on the vegetable.

Arrange the grilled vegetables on a platter and drizzle with the remaining lemon juice. Serve with the 3 sauces at room temperature.

Makes 8 servings.

Nutrition information for vegetables only per 29-ounce serving: 430 cal., 13 g pro., 77 g carbo., 11 g fat, 1,360 mg sodium, 0 mg chol., 16 g fiber.

Note: Trimming and peeling asparagus: To trim asparagus, hold a spear with both hands and bend the spear until it snaps. Discard the stem end. If the asparagus is too thick to bend easily, simply trim away the woody portion of the stem.

Peel asparagus carefully. If you use too much pressure, you could remove too much of the flesh of the asparagus and the spear could snap again. Instead, lay the asparagus flat on a cutting board and then peel, rolling the asparagus to get to all sides. Peel the lower half of each spear. It is easiest if your work surface is about 3 inches higher than your worktable or counter. This way, you won’t bang your knuckles.

Italian-style sauce

2cups roughly chopped flatleaf parsley

1/4cup olive oil

1tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

1tablespoon lemon juice

3/4teaspoon minced garlic

3/4teaspoon salt

1/4teaspoon ground black pepper

Combine all the ingredients. The sauce is ready to serve now or it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Makes 1 cup. Per 1-ounce serving: 80 cal., 1 g pro., 1 g carbo., 8 g fat, 260 mg sodium, 0 mg chol., less than 1 g fiber.

Greek-style sauce

1cup feta cheese