With careful work, you can replace a window with a door

Have you ever thought about installing a French door or a pair of French doors where a window exists? Believe it or not, the conversion is easy.

Choose a door or a pair of doors with a width equal to or slightly smaller than the width of the existing window. The structural support member or “header” above the opening thus will not have to be changed.

Most home-improvement centers maintain a supply of French style doors and related installation materials. There are also door and millwork shops that can order virtually any wood and glass configuration you might want or need.

While appearance is a consideration, integrity and lasting quality is important when making your choice of doors. We believe that a little more money invested up front will ultimately result in savings on repairs and maintenance.

Pine and fir are the most popular choices in French doors. Both will take stain and paint well. Others like oak, walnut and mahogany are less common, but readily available. These harder woods hold up against the weather much better than fir or pine.

Some manufacturers offer factory-painted exterior finishes or aluminum or vinyl-clad exteriors for reduced maintenance and longer life. These features add to the price but may be worth the additional 10 percent to 25 percent.

The glass will have more to do with the overall appearance than any other element. The number of “lites” (or panes) can range from just one to as many as 15 per door. Modern doors contain insulated (or double-paned glass) for maximum energy efficiency.

For those who like the look of more than one lite, but are put off by the prospect of washing each individually, there are applied grids. The removable grid also makes painting considerably easier.

Whenever possible, the doors should be purchased prehung. The assembly should come complete with a threshold and weather-stripping.

The doors should also be bored and mortised for the lockset(s). Purchase the lockset at the same time as the doors so that your home will be secure once the doors have been installed. The lockset trim will need to be temporarily removed when you stain or paint the door.

Start by prepping the area: Take down paintings, photos and other wall hangings that could be affected by vibration from banging. Use drop cloths to protect the furniture and floor from debris.

Working from the interior, use a hammer and a pry bar to remove the window trim. Next, using a level, draw a plumb line from the one side of the window opening to the floor. Do the same for the other side. Using a razor knife, cut along the plumb lines and remove the drywall below the window and between the lines.

Next, working from the exterior, expose the nails that hold the window in place by removing the exterior trim or wall covering that immediately surrounds the window. Use a nail puller to remove the nails securing the window to the house frame. After all of the nails have been pulled, carefully remove the window.

Next, use a reciprocating saw to begin the removal of the exterior wall covering between the base of the window and the floor. One cut parallel to the left side and one parallel to the right side should do it. Remove the framing and siding below the window.

If an electrical outlet exists below the window or if electrical wires are discovered in the wall, consult an electrician. These wires will need to be rerouted.

Also, building code requires an exterior light at each exterior door. A GFCI receptacle may also be required. Chances are good that electrical work will be required.

Before placing the door or doors in the opening, apply a tube of high-quality polyurethane caulk at the base of the opening where the threshold will be placed. This will make for a more waterproof seal.

Working from the exterior with a helper, place the door or doors in the bottom of the opening and tilt upright until plumb in the opening. Use a pry bar to shift the door(s) until centered in the opening. Install shim shingles snugly between the door frame and the house frame near each hinge.

Use a level to check that the door is plumb and square, and adjust the shim shingles accordingly. Use a 3-inch construction screw and drive it through the shims and into the framing at the center of the door frame. Follow the same procedure at the opposite side of the opening.

Once the door has been secured in the opening, install new wood trim at the exterior. Before installing the interior trim be sure to fill the cavity between the house and the door frame with expanding foam. This will completely seal out wind and weather. All exterior trim should be caulked before painting.

Finish the work at the exterior by installing a concrete or wood step, if necessary. Install the lockset, the light fixture and finish the door and trim with stain or paint.

For tips from James and Morris Carey, visit their Web site at www.onthehouse.com.