Chef Kwame Onwuachi cooks an eggplant dish during a keynote presentation as part of the Everett Public Library’s “One Everett One Book” program Friday at the Everett Performing Arts Center. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)

Chef Kwame Onwuachi cooks an eggplant dish during a keynote presentation as part of the Everett Public Library’s “One Everett One Book” program Friday at the Everett Performing Arts Center. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)

In Everett visit, acclaimed chef Kwame Onwuachi offers food for thought

The award-winning chef came to the Everett Performing Arts Center for a spicy cooking demo while fielding audience questions.

EVERETT — Kwame Onwuachi is many things: author, TV writer, occasional stand-up comedian, McDonald’s connoisseur. But above all else, he is a chef.

So if you forgot to eat dinner before attending his talk at the Everett Performing Arts Center on Friday, chances are you instantly regretted it.

About 200 people filled the center’s auditorium Friday evening to hear the James Beard Award-winning chef answer questions about his life, work and his recent acclaimed memoir, “Notes From a Young Black Chef.”

The memoir and Onwuachi’s earlier cookbook, “My America,” were both included in the Everett Public Library’s One Everett One Book program, serving as discussion starters along the theme of “Food for Thought.” The library, along with other sponsors, brought Onwuachi to Everett for the talk to wrap up the program.

True to form, he kicked off the event with a cooking demonstration, then took questions at random from the audience for about a half-hour.

Onwuachi spoke of his family’s deep influence on his cooking as he rapidly sliced eggplant for baigan choka, an Indian-influenced, creole-spiced dish from his grandfather’s native Trinidad. Tossing charred tomatoes and lime juice into the sizzling skillet, he said dishes like these always remind him of family holidays, when a mix of their Nigerian, Creole and Caribbean roots would meld into a truly flavorful spread for the table.

“Food was always the great connector for us,” Onwuachi told the crowd. “It was a great way for everyone to spend quality time together. And plus, it was the only time everyone’s mouth is too full to argue.”

He tossed a scotch bonnet pepper, one of the world’s hottest, into the pan, and the spicy, fragrant steam quickly filled the space. A few attendees coughed, others covered their mouths and noses with their shirts.

Onwuachi asked if spicy food was common among Everett foodies.

“Only if you make it at home,” an audience member called out.

Onwuachi, 33, is a fast-rising star in the food world. He was a contestant on Top Chef in 2015, and he has since returned to judge the competition. He’s opened a handful of highly acclaimed restaurants around the country, dealing in such disparate cuisines as French-influenced traditional fine dining to upscale Philly cheesesteaks.

His most recent venture in New York City’s Lincoln Center, Tatiana, serves food inspired by the surrounding city where Onwuachi grew up. His mother was a chef, too, running a catering business from home where Onwuachi, age 5, was her first employee.

When she was busy, his sister Tatiana — the new restaurant’s namesake — took care of Onwuachi, and he constantly begged her for delicacies from the corner bodega. His new venture levels up that corner-store fare into a culinary experience, turning childhood nostalgia into a rich homemade take on the Cosmic Brownie with powdered donut ice cream served alongside.

With his hands so full juggling his many creative endeavors, he still often returns to the simple, quick and cheap comforts of microwave popcorn and cup noodles, Onwuachi said. His memoir is being adapted into a feature film by the production house A24, and he’s spending a lot of time these days reviewing scripts and adding input.

Asked who he’d like to see play him in the movie, Onwuachi joked that Michael B. Jordan was his first choice, despite the actor not being quite handsome enough to fit the bill. Maybe he’d cast all white actors to play his family, just to really throw people off, he said.

But seriously, he said, he wants to see a fellow rising star, British actor Damson Idris, take the role. And casting his family would be a tall order, since he wants to get the sensibilities and humor that shaped him just right.

“In everything I do, I want to keep it real to my experience,” Onwuachi said. “With cooking and with everything else, I think influences are good to keep on your sleeves as long as they’re authentic. That’s all that matters to me.”

Riley Haun: 425-339-3192; riley.haun@heraldnet.com; Twitter: @RHaunID.

Talk to us

> Give us your news tips.

> Send us a letter to the editor.

> More Herald contact information.

More in Local News

Olivia Vanni / The Herald 
The Mukilteo Lighthouse. Built in 1906, it’s one of the most iconic landmarks in Snohomish County.
The Mukilteo Lighthouse. Built in 1906, it’s one of the most iconic landmarks in Snohomish County. (Olivia Vanni / The Herald)
Mukilteo mayor vetoes council-approved sales tax

The tax would have helped pay for transportation infrastructure, but was also set to give Mukilteo the highest sales tax rate in the state.

Marysville Mayor Jon Nehring gives the state of the city address at the Marysville Civic Center on Wednesday, Jan. 31, 2024, in Marysville, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
Marysville council approves interim middle housing law

The council passed the regulations to prevent a state model code from taking effect by default. It expects to approve final rules by October.

x
State audit takes issue with Edmonds COVID grant monitoring

The audit report covered 2023 and is the third since 2020 that found similar issues with COVID-19 recovery grant documentation.

Bothell
Bothell man pleads guilty to sexual abuse of Marysville middle schoolers

The man allegedly sexually assaulted three students in exchange for vapes and edibles in 2022. His sentencing is set for Aug. 29.

Larsen talks proposed Medicaid cuts during Compass Health stop in Everett

Compass Health plans to open its new behavioral health center in August. Nearly all of the nonprofit’s patients rely on Medicaid.

District 2 candidates differ in public safety approach

Incumbent Paula Rhyne is facing challenger Ryan Crowther. The third candidate, Jonathan Shapiro, is no longer seeking the seat.

From left to right, Edmonds City Council Position 3 candidates Joseph Ademofe, Alex Newman and Erika Barnett.
Amid budget crisis, Edmonds City Council candidates talk revenue, affordability

Three newcomers are facing off for Position 3 on the council, currently held by council President Neil Tibbott.

Community members gather for the dedication of the Oso Landslide Memorial following the ten-year remembrance of the slide on Friday, March 22, 2024, at the Oso Landslide Memorial in Oso, Washington. (Ryan Berry / The Herald)
The Daily Herald garners 6 awards from regional journalism competition

The awards recognize the best in journalism from media outlets across Alaska, Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington.

Everett
Everett approves new fines for non-emergency lifts

The fire department will only issue fines for non-emergency lift assists at licensed care facilities, not for individuals at home calling 911.

Guns for sale at Caso’s Gun-A-Rama in Jersey City, New Jersey, which has been open since 1967. (Photo by Aristide Economopoulos/New Jersey Monitor)
After suing, WA gets carveout from Trump administration plan to return gun conversion devices

The Trump administration has agreed to not distribute devices that turn semi-automatic… Continue reading

The Wild Horse Wind and Solar Facility about 16 miles east of Ellensburg in central Washington is part of Puget Sound Energy’s clean energy portfolio. (Courtesy of Puget Sound Energy)
Megabill’s elimination of tax credits for clean energy projects could cost WA $8.7 billion

Washington households could see electricity costs increase $115 per year by 2029; 21,800 workers could lose their jobs by 2030, analysts say.

Everett mayor candidates focus on affordability, city budget in costly race

As incumbent Cassie Franklin seeks a third term in office, three candidates are looking to unseat her.

Support local journalism

If you value local news, make a gift now to support the trusted journalism you get in The Daily Herald. Donations processed in this system are not tax deductible.