Basic Burgers

Published 9:00 pm Tuesday, July 19, 2005

You can tell how beloved the hamburger is in the United States when you consider that despite the billions of fast-food varieties we’ve consumed over the years, we still love to fire up our grills to make homemade, charcoal-broiled, black-seared burgers in our own back yards.

We have high expectations for that sssshh of the sizzle. That primal perfume of hearty beef. That spurt of hot juice as our mouths make our way into grilled ground meat.

Grilled burgers are simple, but making them tasty and juicy takes some doing.

First, there’s the matter of the meat. Turkey or lamb burgers have their place at the table, but a traditional American hamburger is made with beef.

That beef needs some fat to keep the patties juicy. A lean cut, such as sirloin, is too dry; the burgers can crumble over the coals. Just as problematic is ground beef with more than 20 percent fat; the burgers will be greasy and shrink beyond virtue.

Most aficionados agree that chuck is the best choice. It has the right amount of fat and a rich beefy flavor. You can mix in ground round if you prefer (as much as one-third of the meat).

Whatever you choose, to keep the burger tender and succulent, use the meat within a day of purchase and shape it quickly with as little handling as possible.

Purists say a good hamburger needs no more seasoning than salt and pepper, especially if you add flavor chips to the charcoal. Corn cob, apple and hickory pieces each impart a distinctive, delicate flavor. Mesquite chips suffuse the burgers with a smoky taste.

But if you like something more, other possibilities include mixing the meat with minced fresh oregano, thyme, parsley or marjoram, or spices such as curry or chili powder. Or add a splash or two of Worcestershire, hot pepper sauce, or soy sauce and sesame oil. Or blend in chopped onions, garlic or grated Parmesan.

Shape the burgers into patties about an inch thick. If they’re too thin, they’ll dry out and become tough over the heat, but if they’re too thick, the surface will harden before the inside finishes. If you like burgers really rare, make a pocket in the center of the patty and stuff it with ice shavings. Or, place the uncooked patty in the freezer for about 20 minutes before cooking it.

Be sure the grill is hot before you put the patties on. Cook the burgers 6 inches from the heat for 5 to 8 minutes, depending on how done you like them. Turn them once and don’t be tempted to press down on the patty while it cooks. Contrary to popular thought, that doesn’t get rid of excess fat, but it releases precious natural juices that keep the meat moist and flavorful.

A plain hamburger is fine. The American way is to eat it on a bun (but toasted bread, Kaiser roll or fresh pumpernickel will do). If you toast the bread over the fire for about 30 seconds, you’ll notice that the surface will absorb the meat’s juices without becoming overly soggy.

Ketchup is the king of burger condiments in this country, but if you mix it with some mayonnaise and perhaps some chopped pickles, you come close to that famous “special sauce” so many people love.

Other favorite standbys – a slice of onion and tomato – always work, as do crumbled blue cheese, cheddar, relish, baked beans, sun-dried tomatoes and anchovies.

If you’re in the mood for something different, try our recipe for hamburgers with egg and salsa. The still-runny yolk enriches the sandwich, while the well-browned egg white gives a satisfying crispy bite next to the tender beef. Fresh vegetables offer a lovely cool counterpart to the hot ingredients.

Our BLT burger is a sumptuous dinner, combining two sandwiches in one and then some. It has the usual hamburger fixin’s – burgers, ketchup and cheese – with bacon, lettuce and tomato, plus a dollop of velvety avocado.

This ultra-burger is fine on a traditional hamburger bun, or on toasted challah or brioche.

Grilled hamburgers

20-24 ounces ground chuck

Salt and pepper to taste

2teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

Few drops hot pepper sauce, optional

Ice shavings (for rare burgers)

4hamburger buns

Ketchup, optional

8thin slices of Vidalia, Spanish or red onion, optional 8 thin slices tomato, optional

12slices kosher dill pickle, optional

Preheat grill. Mix meat with salt and pepper, Worcestershire and hot pepper sauce, if used. Shape mixture into four patties no more than 1-inch thick. For extra-rare burgers, make an opening on the edge of the burger and stuff a few ice shavings inside.

Grill burgers 6 inches away from heat 5 to 8 minutes, turning once, or until patties reach degree of desired doneness. Grill bread 30 seconds or so, to warm it, then spread ketchup on buns’ flat side. Place burgers on top. Cover if desired, with onion, tomato, pickles. Top with rounded bun half.

Makes four servings.

BLT burger

1ripe avocado

1tablespoon juice

8slices bacon

1/4cup ketchup

1/4cup mayonnaise

1recipe hamburgers (as above)

4pieces of lettuce

4thin slices cheddar cheese

8thin slices of tomato

8thin slices of red onion

Peel the avocado, place flesh in a bowl and add the lemon juice. Mash with a fork and blend ingredients together. Set aside.

Fry the bacon until crispy and set aside.

Mix the ketchup and mayonnaise together and set aside.

Prepare the hamburgers.

Grill bread 30 seconds or so, to warm it, then spread ketchup mixture on flat side of bun. Layer with lettuce, then avocado mixture, burgers, cheddar cheese, tomato, red onion and bacon. Place the rounded bun half on top.

Makes four servings.

Hamburgers with egg and salsa

1large tomato

1small red bell pepper

1jalapeno pepper

1/2cup chopped red onion

1large clove garlic, minced

2tablespoons minced fresh cilantro

2tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1teaspoon lemon juice

1recipe hamburgers (as above)

2teaspoon olive oil

4medium eggs

Bring pot of water to boil; immerse tomato for 20 seconds. Remove tomato, peel and discard skin and cut in half, crosswise. Squeeze tomato halves to remove seeds and chop into chunks. Remove and discard the stem, seeds and white pith from the red and jalapeno peppers and cut them into chunks.

Place tomatoes, peppers, onion, garlic, cilantro, parsley and lemon juice in work bowl of food processor or blender. Process a few seconds to blend. Set aside.

Prepare hamburgers; grill bread about 30 seconds.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Break eggs into skillet; fry eggs until whites are firm but yolks are still runny. Cut into four equal pieces. Place grilled burgers on flat side of bun. Top with eggs. Spoon on salsa. Top with rounded bun half.

Makes four servings.