Scared by raw fish? Try this Jamaican dish

Published 7:08 pm Tuesday, July 17, 2007

While the basic idea of ceviche sort of appeals to me, the fact that it is, after all, raw fish or seafood, doesn’t. Never mind that it’s supposedly “cooked” by the fresh lemon and/or lime juice. It is still – let’s be honest here – raw whatever.

And I don’t, obviously, know about you and yours, but I for sure know about me and mine, and we draw the line at uncooked (or underdone, for that matter) fresh or salt water anything.

So where does that leave us would-be-but-won’t ceviche eaters? Why, thanking Camano Island cook Susan Butcher and singing her praises to the heavens for sharing the following how-to for what can be likened to a sort of cooked version of ceviche.

Incidentally, it’s another one of the kicky specialties she and her husband brought back from a trip to Jamaica and Key West before Hurricane Katrina hit.

“This escoveitched snapper was prepared for us by a Jamaican chef,” Susan says, “and I got her recipe.”

Escoveitched red snapper (Jamaican pickled fish)

Spice seasoning (recipe follows)

2pounds red snapper fillets (tilapia or cod are good substitutes)

Juice of half a lemon

1tablespoon spice seasoning

Escoveitch sauce (recipe follows)

Flour for dusting fish

Oil for shallow frying

Lemon wedges for garnish

Prepare the spice seasoning and set aside. For the snapper, rinse, pat dry and place fillets in a shallow glass or stainless dish, squeeze the lemon juice over them, sprinkle with the spice seasoning and pat it into the fish with your fingertips. Cover dish and refrigerate for at least an hour.

Prepare escoveitch sauce. While sauce cooks, remove fish from refrigerator, cut fillets into 3-inch pieces and dust with the flour, shaking off excess. Heat oil in a heavy frying pan and fry fish pieces for 2 to 3 minutes, turning until golden brown and crisp. Using a slotted spoon, lift the fried fish to a large serving platter and keep hot until the escoveitch sauce is cooked. Let sauce stand 10 minutes, then pour over the hot cooked fish and garnish with lemon wedges.

Makes 6 servings.

Spice seasoning

1tablespoon granulated garlic

1 1/2teaspoons freshly ground coarse pepper

1 1/2teaspoons paprika

1 1/2teaspoons celery salt

1 1/2teaspoons curry powder

1/2-1teaspoon cayenne pepper, to taste

1teaspoon superfine-sugar

Thoroughly mix together all of the ingredients and store in a tightly sealed container in a cool, dry place.

Escoveitch sauce

2tablespoons vegetable oil

1white onion, sliced thinly

2small carrots, cut into small chunks

1/2red bell pepper, thinly sliced

1small chayote (squash), peeled, seeded and cut in small pieces (see note)

2cloves garlic, crushed

1/2cup malt vinegar

1/2cup water

3green onions, sliced in 2-inch pieces

2fresh Scotch bonnet or habanero chiles, seeded and cut in thin strips (see note)

6dry pimento seeds (whole allspice)

1sprig fresh thyme, chopped

1bay leaf

1tablespoon brown sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat oil in a frying pan, add white onion and fry for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the carrots, red pepper, chayote and garlic and stir-fry 2 minutes. Add malt vinegar, water, green onions, hot chiles, whole allspice, thyme, bay leaf, brown sugar, salt and pepper; bring to a quick boil, then lower heat to a simmer and cook 5 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before pouring over cooked fish.

Note: Chayotes, often used in Latin American and some Cajun and Creole cooking, can be found in the produce section at better-stocked local supermarkets.

Note: Both Scotch bonnet chiles and habanero chiles are hot, so you might want to use less the first time you try this recipe.

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