Julio’s in Bothell gets it right with fresh ingredients, skill

Published 9:42 am Friday, September 3, 2010

At a typical Americanized Mexican restaurant not long ago, I suffered through an appallingly awful meal — followed by a bellyache later that evening.

I figured I’d eaten my last burrito combo special, and good riddance.

And then I discovered Julio’s in downtown Bothell.

What a difference fresh ingredients and a commitment to quality make.

Julio’s, run by a hard-working husband and wife team in a space that appears to be in the midst of a remodel, serves authentic, handmade Mexican food. Given the quality, the prices are a bargain.

Actually, we’re talking phenomenal bargain here. The $1.25 tacos consist of two house-made corn tortillas and brilliantly seasoned meat (chicken, pork, beef or tongue). A bit of chopped onion and cilantro, squeezes of fresh lime juice and an excellent salsa verde added still more vibrant flavor.

Three of these tacos makes for the best $4.11 lunch I’ve ever found in a stationary restaurant.

I could taste every clean, fresh ingredient in the pork burrito (about $5) — a delicious and refreshing contrast to the meat-bean-rice mush in an oversize tortilla so common these days.

My burrito contained black beans; refried beans are offered, too. A small salad of lettuce on the side, so often a wilted afterthought that’s not meant to be eaten, turned out to be a delightful surprise because the greens were so fresh.

Lunch began with crisp chips and a bright, fresh salsa, both made in-house and several cuts above the average.

Had it not been a working lunch, we would have enjoyed a margarita made with one of the excellent tequilas Julio’s keeps on hand.

Our lunch bill for two, including beverages, came to $13.41. A family of four could eat well here for about $20, or about what you’d pay for several sacks of take-out rubbish.

We’ll be returning to Julio’s often to work our way through the menu, which includes traditional Mexican fare I’m not familiar with. Our server said a new menu is coming soon.

Now I know why my wife’s son-in-law, a professional winemaker in nearby Woodinville who really knows food, raves about Julio’s. I can’t remember eating so well for so little money.

And no bellyache afterward.

Also in Bothell

If you’re in the mood for a retro small-town burgers-and-fries experience, check out the Ranch Drive-In, a Bothell institution going back decades.

To step into the Ranch, with its carved-wood menu board, Western-themed decorations and booth seats laminated in comfortable contours, is to step into 1962.

I could picture Mom, Dad, Biff and Sally grabbing a quick supper before heading back home to catch “Wagon Train” on the 19-inch Philco.

On a recent visit to this family-owned Bothell institution, we chose the double-patty Ranch burger ($5.59), the single-patty Deluxe burger ($3.39), an order of onion rings ($2.69) and a couple of sodas.

The burgers were fine examples of hometown hamburger-stand fare. The onion rings were crisp instead of limp and greasy. I’ll try a milkshake next time.

After all these years, the Ranch still packs ‘em in; a steady stream of customers trooped through the place during our 30-minute visit.

Carved-wood menus may no longer be in fashion, but good burgers always will be.

Julio’s

10023 NE 183rd St., Bothell (in a small strip mall between NE 183rd Street and Main Street); 425-485-1769

Specialty: Mexican food

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily

Alcohol: Beer and tequila

Price range: Inexpensive

The Ranch Drive-In

18218 Bothell Way NE, Bothell; www.ranchdrivein.com

Specialty: Burgers

Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

Alcohol: Not served

Price range: Inexpensive