Teanaway trek

Published 9:00 pm Friday, May 27, 2005

My friends the Two Lindas and I perched on the summit rocks of Navaho Peak, 7,223 feet above sea level, and rested. We had worked hard to get here, hiking 1,200 feet from the pass below on a hot, steep route.

This summit was only the most recent in a long string of peaks I have climbed with the Two Lindas over the past 15 years. As the years pass we appreciate each other’s strengths and friendship more and more. There is nothing better than to hit the trail with these two intrepid companions.

To the west over the Cascade crest, we could see dark clouds building. We decided not to stay long on the summit, in case those clouds got too close, but for a while we could share the elation of another mountaintop attained together.

Our eyes were drawn to the route we had traveled the previous day. The high elevation of this peak gave us a bird’s-eye view of the country for miles around.

Linda Rostad of Redmond pointed to a small rocky peak, about three miles away. “That must be Bean Peak,” she said, “and there, you can see the pass we crossed yesterday afternoon, and the snowfield below it.”

It was June, and because of the early snowmelt, we hadn’t anticipated seeing the snowfield still so large. We had not brought our ice axes.

We weren’t stopped for long. Linda Bakkar of Lynnwood explored the edges of the snowfield – actually a remnant cornice – until she found a way down. Carefully, Linda Rostad and her hiking dog, Sammy, and I came down behind her.

We dropped into upper Hardscrabble Creek basin to camp on a finger of gravel near a burbling stream running full with melted snow and lined with purple shooting stars in full bloom. We slept under a star-filled sky.

In the morning we climbed out of Hardscrabble Creek basin to cross another pass on the north ridge of Earl Peak, 7,036 feet high. This section of trail was abandoned and required that we pay close attention to finding a route.

As before, when we reached the top of the pass, a remnant cornice lay between us and the meadow below. Linda Rostad, Sammy and I descended it the same way we had before – by following in Linda Bakkar’s footsteps.

After reaching the meadow, we found a hidden copse of trees to leave our packs and we headed for the top of Navaho Peak with just fanny packs.

After a mountaintop lunch and signing the peak register, the Two Lindas and I headed back down, content with our accomplishment.

The next day we completed our loop, using the Standup Creek and Bean Creek trails to bring us back to the car. This day was surprisingly the most difficult – to our astonishment we lost the trail in the west half of upper Standup Creek basin. Even Sammy, who usually is pretty good about finding vague paths, was at a loss.

In less than an hour, however, we had ourselves back on track, following our map, an altimeter and Linda Rostad’s hunch that we were way below where we should be. Later we talked with other hikers who had lost the trail in the same basin. We were glad it wasn’t just us.

Some of the finest easy high-country wandering is along this stretch of the Wenatchee Mountains south of Mount Stuart and north of I-90 and Cle Elum. Drained by the three forks of the Teanaway River, it is frequently referred to as the “Teanaway Country.” It is a great place to head for a long weekend of hiking in pine and larch forests and open meadows, topped with craggy ridges and peaks.

Its location on the eastern slope of the Cascade Range means that it is hot, dry and sunny. The Cle Elum Ranger District reports this year that the higher mountain trails still have snow above 4,500 to 5,000 feet. Hikers can expect to encounter snow in the upper reaches of all three loop trails described at this time of year, but wildflowers abound now through June, making a spectacular late spring display.

The region has many hiking trails and a number of them can be joined to make loops.

Here are descriptions for three loop hikes in the Teanaway Country:

Esmeralda loop

Total distance 11 1/2 miles (includes 11/4 miles of road that can be eliminated if you leave a second car at the end). The trail begins at DeRoux Campground, just past the outfitter’s corrals on North Fork Teanaway Road, about nine miles beyond 29 Pines Campground.

The trail is an easy walk through forest for the first 1 1/2 miles. It then climbs steeply to a beautiful high valley more than half a mile long, and climbs again to Gallagher Head Lake at a small pass.

Continue north from the lake, dropping gently on a Jeep track for about a mile. At the junction with Trail 1394, turn right and climb steeply to Fortune Creek Pass.

Descend through the open meadows of Esmeralda Basin, noted for its wildflowers, to the Esmeralda trailhead. Here, unless you have left a second car, you must walk the road back to DeRoux Campground.

For an overnight trip, camping is available at many spots along this route, although backpackers probably will not want to spend the night at Gallagher Head Lake, which is accessible by four-wheel-drive vehicles.

County Line loop

Total distance 16 miles, including the round trip to the summit of Navaho Peak. Drive North Fork Road 9737 about 5 miles from 29 Pines Campground and turn right onto Beverly Creek Road 112. The trail begins at the end of Beverly Creek Road.

From the trailhead, cross the creek on a sturdy bridge. It’s the last bridge you will see on this loop. All other creeks must be crossed by fording. Walk up an abandoned road, and at the trail junction turn left; the right fork is your route back. Immediately ford Bean Creek and continue along the trail.

In 2.2 miles from the ford, turn right at a trail junction and climb to Fourth Creek Pass. Turn right again onto the County Line Trail and wander through meadows and bogs full of summer flowers. About 11/4 miles from Fourth Creek Pass make a steep climb to a pass on the ridge between Bean Peak (Peak 6743 on your topographical map) and Volcanic Neck, the impressive volcanic plug to the north.

It is worthwhile here to get out the map and compass and spend a few minutes locating the next pass, on the ridge that runs north from Earl Peak. Knowing where that pass is may help you navigate more surely on this stretch of trail.

The trail, faint and sometimes vague, continues down into Hardscrabble Creek basin, where nice camping is available, and climbs to cross that next pass. Once over the pass you will have beautiful views to Stafford Creek basin below, and straight ahead to Navaho Peak.

Climb Navaho if you desire. A boot-beaten path leads all the way up and although steep it is not difficult to follow.

To complete the loop, follow the trails around the south side of Earl Peak to Bean Creek and back to the car. A Washington Trails Association volunteer work party has reworked the section where we got lost; hikers this year should find the way more easily.

Miller Peak loop

Total distance 11 1/2 miles. Drive North Fork Road about 1 1/2 miles from 29 Pines Campground; turn right on Stafford Creek Road and drive about 31/2 miles to the trailhead parking area at its end.

Start by hiking up the Miller Creek trail as it follows the creek drainage for two miles, then climbs to open country. Take a half-mile side trip to the summit of Miller Peak, 6,400 feet, for great views over the countryside. On Trail 1226, circle the Bear Creek basin on high open slopes. At the junction with Trail 1364, follow it past a minor summit unofficially called “Iron Bear,” and down to a pass and four-way trail junction. You might want to make a side trip to this summit early in the summer to see bitterroot blooms

Here turn west on Trail 1351 and in 3.5 miles arrive back at your car.