Take the 12-step cure for watering this year

Published 9:00 pm Wednesday, April 6, 2005

The rain in late March, though welcome, didn’t make up for all the preceding dry weather. We are almost certainly going to be asked to conserve water this summer. Since the vast majority of our summer water is consumed by our landscape, how do we comply and still have a great garden? The answer is to wean your thirsty yard off its drinking habit.

To accomplish this, here is a 12-step program with the steps listed in order of importance. If you would like an expanded version of this article, send a self-addressed, stamped, business-size envelope to Water-Efficient Gardening, WSU Extension, 600 128th St. SE, Everett WA 98208.

Step one is dividing your garden into water-use zones. Sketch out your garden and consider what is planted where. Now designate each area as low- or high-frequency irrigation zones. Try to put at least 80 percent of your landscape in low water-use zones. Plan small areas where you can grow favorite plants that require regular irrigation. These high water-use zones may include focal points, the area around your entry, your vegetable garden and your lawn.

Start a list of plants that must be moved to be in the correct zone. If you don’t know the water needs of your plants, you will need a good plant encyclopedia and perhaps help from your local nursery or the Washington State University master gardeners.

Move moisture-lovers located in a low water zone to a high one. You need them out of there, so that you can start the rest of the plants on less frequent irrigations.

Now pick one low water-use zone and fill empty spots (from which you removed thirsty plants) with new, drought-tolerant plants. New or newly moved plants will need regular irrigation the first year, even those that can take drought once established. Don’t try to move or plant all over your yard or you will be watering more, not less, this summer.

Step two is soil improvement. Add organic matter to your soil mixing it to a depth of about 8 inches. This isn’t too hard for vegetables, annual flowers and other herbaceous plants. With woody plants, especially established ones, you will add organic by layering it on top of the soil.

Step three is mulching. A course layer of wood chips around woody plants or any permanent planting is a good way to conserve water. Where the soil is turned annually, use compost, lawn clippings, straw or leaf mold which break down quickly when buried.

Step four is simply to irrigate no more than needed. Usually one inch of water per week will be required in the high water-use zones, unless we have had significant rainfall. Water just once a week, unless the area contains seedlings. For the low water-use zones once a month is ideal.

In either case, your existing plants may need time to adapt and put roots deeper. Try to slowly stretch the intervals between watering over the spring for herbaceous plants and through the summer for woody ones. Watch your plants for drought symptoms.

Irrigate when temperatures are low to keep evaporation to a minimum. Early morning is probably best, but evening is also fine.

Step five is choosing plants able to tolerate infrequent watering. There are many books and other resources with plant lists, so I won’t take up space here.

Step six is buying good irrigation equipment and then using and maintaining it properly. If you have a sprinkler system, correlate its zones to your water-use plan. Consider installing a drip irrigation system or using soaker hoses in your beds.

Step seven is installing a rain barrel or two at your downspouts. This will not contribute much, but every little bit helps.

Step eight is being sensible about your lawn. Keep turf areas as small as possible and consider letting them go brown for the summer.

Step nine is using intensive techniques in the vegetable garden so that you get good production from a smaller space.

Steps 10 and 11 are pruning and fertilizing. Be careful about doing much of either, since they promote thirsty new growth.

And step 12 is avoiding moss baskets and unglazed terra cotta planters. Containers made of other materials will hold moisture better than moss and clay.

Holly Kennell is the Snohomish County extension agent for Washington State University Cooperative Extension. Master gardeners answer questions on weekdays at WSU Cooperative Extension – Snohomish County, 600 128th St. SE, Everett, WA 98208. Call 425-338-2400.