We’re launching into a new year, and for the first time in a very long time I’ve heard the “R” word being tossed around.
No, I’m not talking about resolutions (although I know we all have a pocket-load of good intentions).
I hesitate to actually type the word, in fear of conjuring up those spooks of economic gloom, but let’s just say it begins with ‘recess’ and goes downhill from there.
You know, it’s always the right time to be frugal with our wine budgets regardless of the condition of our national economy, but it becomes increasingly important when gas is almost as expensive as some of our favorite fermented beverages.
The good news is that the very nature of wine is most cathartic in moderation (as they say, “everything in moderation — particularly moderation”), and there are always good deals to be had if we want to look for them.
That said, it’s time to break out my annual beginning of the year “Wick’s Picks — Top 20 under $20.”
We’ll explore the first 10 in this installment with five whites and five reds and follow with the final five and five in the next column.
Whites
Las Brisas Blanc 2006 $8
This is a consistently great value from the Rueda region in Spain. It’s a lip-smacking blend of verdeho, sauvignon blanc and viura, and it just forces you to think of warm summer days — really not a bad thing for this time of year. This wine blasts you with a zippy, intense and satisfying array of citrus, grapefruit, lemon zest and mineral aromas and flavors. Try this little beauty with some fresh halibut or cracked crab, and you’ll find yourself transported about seven or eight months into the future. Sometimes summer in a bottle isn’t a bad way to go.
Woop Woop 2006 Verdelho $9
This white wine from the Limestone Coast region of southeastern Australia is 100 percent tank-fermented and aged verdelho, which is the Australian version of the above mentioned verdeho grape. It’s a ripe and rich fruit-driven style of white wine that bursts with crisp, melony tropical fruit and flowers and has a medium to full body with tons of “zest appeal.” Another “can’t wait for summer” kind of wine. Sense a pattern?
14 Hands 2005 Chardonnay $10
It’s hard to not recognize this plush and creamy Washington chardonnay, even though it may be a little tricky to track down. It’s made at the Columbia Crest Winery in the Horse Heaven Hills Viticultural Area in south-central Washington, and has been mandated by the winery to be sold in restaurants, not stores.
But you can order it online at www.14hands.com, special order from any retailer (case only minimum) or through a retailer who also may have a restaurant license.
Chardonnay from Washington is known for its wonderful fruit-forward flavor profiles. This wine is no exception. Bursting with flavors and aromas of melon, apple and pear, it also reveals slight floral notes in the background. Bright, crisp acidity makes this chardonnay a perfect accompaniment to food.
Barnard Griffin 2006 Semillon $10
Rob Griffin is one of the real trailblazers of the Washington wine industry, and has dedicated a big chunk of his career to extracting the most from the semillon grape. He’s certainly displayed his passion for the varietal with this beautifully crafted wine that shows pretty aromas of ripe pears, pineapple and herbal spice. The great thing about this wine is that it will cellar brilliantly and continue to gain subtle complexity for many years — a white wine for a 10-spot that will lay down is a rare commodity.
Ferrari Carano 2006 Fume Blanc $14
The 2005 Ferrari-Carano Fumé Blanc (100 percent sauvignon blanc) offers a fresh and vibrant fruit entry with a rich mouth feel. Zesty flavors and aromas of tropical fruit, apricot and lemon with a light floral characteristic and a hint of grass are complemented by creamy vanilla notes. Aging partially in stainless steel and older French oak gives this wine a light-bodied feel complemented by subtle oak character. This is a special price on this wine for a limited time, so snatching a few bottles would be a good idea.
Reds
Apaltagua 2005 Pinot Noir $10
This is one of the most impressive $10 pinot noirs I’ve tasted in many, many harvests. It’s from the Curico Valley in Chile. It shows a brilliant ruby color and gushes with aromas and flavors of ripe dark cherry, fresh raspberry, rhubarb and spicy oak. It’s smooth, smooth, smooth on the palate, which is exactly what a pinot noir should be. Unfortunately that usually comes with a much larger price tag. This is one to grab and drink now, but also get enough to let some simmer in the cellar.
Altos las Hormigas 2006 Malbec $8
A 100 percent Argentinean malbec from an estate founded in 1995 by an eclectic group of Italian wine professionals who wanted to focus on the bonarda and malbec grape varieties. This wine is a perennial winner year in and year out, but this vintage really stands out. Very intense and fruit-driven, its nose integrates layers of violet, lavender, red berries, licorice and chocolate. Ample structure and full body makes this wine a great partner for a grilled steak, rich carbonara pasta or soft aged cheeses.
Castle Rock 2005 Russian River Petite Sirah $11
This petite sirah is dark, full-bodied and deeply concentrated, yielding aromas of ripe berry, coffee, and spice. On the palate, it carries layers of ripe cherry, blackberry and plum. Its finish is long-lasting and harmonious with well-integrated tannins. This petite sirah makes an excellent accompaniment to beef, game, spicy grilled food or charbroiled meats.
Tamarack 2005 “Firehouse Red” $18
This delicious Columbia Valley red is a blend of 31 percent cabernet sauvignon, 30 percent syrah, 24 percent merlot, 11 percent cabernet franc, 2 percent sangiovese, 1 percent carmenere, and 1 percent malbec. It shows dark purple-red color with sweet, blackfruit on the nose, with flavors of cherry, black currant, blackberry and hints of boysenberry, cocoa and charred oak. Thick and concentrated with a firm grip on the palate.
A to Z 2006 Pinot Noir $19
The 2006 A to Z Oregon pinot noir is blended from wines made from the grapes of at least 16 different vineyards, representing all the Oregon AVAs that grow pinot noir.
A to Z takes great care over many months in crafting one cuvee each vintage, a complex blend that embodies the essence of Oregon pinot noir. Clear and vibrant, the initial aromas of this wine are of raspberries, blueberries, baking spices and bing cherries, but evolve to the more complex aromas of clean earth, minerals, smoke, red currants and flint. The palate fulfills the expectations promised by the aromatics. There is rich texture, good acidity and a strong structure. The wine shows great poise, concentrated depth and purity within a lacy framework. Rich, classically proportioned and built for mid-term aging.
Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600, 360-756-0422 or wick@purplesmilewines.com.
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