Martha shares classic take on chunky seafood soup

Published 9:00 pm Wednesday, September 6, 2006

What is the difference between soup and chowder?

Technically, a soup is any combination of meat, fish or vegetables in a broth.

A chowder is a thick soup that usually contains seafood and potatoes as its primary ingredients (clam chowder is the most common), though the term is often used more loosely in describing any rich, chunky soup. The word “chowder” is derived from the French chaudiere, the term for a caldron that fishermen traditionally used to make stews from the day’s catch.

Few dishes are more comforting than a bowl of classic New England clam chowder. Purists argue about precisely how the soup should be prepared – some insist on salt pork instead of bacon, others want no seasonings but salt and pepper.

The following recipe takes some liberties with flavorings, but I think you’ll find the result to be hearty and delicious.

New England clam chowder

6strips bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces

2celery stalks, strings removed, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1cup very small pearl onions, peeled

3tablespoons all-purpose flour

2cups unsalted clam juice

4small Yukon Gold potatoes (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice

2bay leaves

1/4teaspoon freshly ground pepper

5large sprigs fresh thyme

8pounds quahog clams, shucked, liquid reserved and chopped into 1/2-inch pieces (2 pounds shucked clams)

1 1/2cups fresh yellow-corn kernels (2 ears)

21/2cups milk

2tablespoons unsalted butter

1teaspoon salt

1tablespoon sherry (optional)

In a stockpot, cook the bacon until crisp. Drain on a paper towel and crumble. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat. Add celery and onions and saute, stirring occasionally, until translucent, 7 minutes.

Sprinkle flour over onion mixture and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, 2 to 3 minutes. Add clam juice, 1/2 cup water, potatoes, bay leaves and 1/8 teaspoon pepper, cover and bring to a boil. Pick thyme leaves from stems. Add both to pot. Reduce heat to medium low, and simmer until potatoes are almost fork tender, about 12 minutes.

Add clams and reserved liquid, cover and cook 4 minutes over medium heat. Add corn, cover, and cook 4 to 6 minutes. Add milk and butter, then cook until butter melts, about 5 minutes. Remove bay leaves and thyme stems, then add 1/8 teaspoon pepper and 1 teaspoon salt.

Serve immediately, drizzled with sherry, if using, and garnished with bacon.

Serves 6 to 8.

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Questions should be addressed to Ask Martha, care of Letters Department, Martha Stewart Living, 11 W. 42nd Street, New York, N.Y. 10036. E-mail to mslletters@martha stewart.com.

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