Chevys Fresh Mex a pleasant dining surprise

Published 7:30 am Friday, February 22, 2008

If you associate Mexican cuisine with cheese laden, greasy fare, then you will be in for a pleasant surprise at Chevys Fresh Mex restaurant in Lynnwood.

In 1986, a San Francisco entrepreneur named Warren Simmons saw the need for a fresh idea in Mexican cuisine. His answer was to create a Mexican dining experience devoid of canned ingredients and heavy oils. The result was Chevys Fresh Mex.

Since then, one restaurant has expanded to more than 100 locations nationwide. In 1997, Puget Sound restauranteur Christine Bloch brought Simmons’ successful formula to Lynnwood and Tacoma. Five years later, both locations continue to draw a steady crowd of diners to their warm, festive atmosphere.

The Fresh Mex concept begins as soon as the traditional basket of chips and salsa arrives at the table. Salsa is blended hourly from freshly charred tomatoes, onions and jalapeños; chips are also made in house, and served crispy and warm.

Peruse the menu and be prepared for a wide selection of traditional Mexican plates, such as tacos, tamales and burritos, as well as modern takes on old favorites. Give in to the temptation to order an appetizer, such as the Southwestern flautas, with tender salsa chicken and cheese rolled into flour tortillas and very lightly fried. Topped with chipotle dressing and served with sweet jalapeño jelly, this will be a tasty start to your meal. Add a side of their chunky guacamole and you almost have a meal in itself.

For the main course, Chevys’ specialty is the fajita, of which there are eight varieties to choose. The mesquite-grilled chicken or steak are obvious choices, but don’t overlook the lemon-rosemary chicken, roasted veggie, shrimp, portobello mushrooms and fresh asparagus, or the baby back ribs. Served with generous side portions, including the delicious sweet corn tomalito (a slightly sweet, mashed potato like dish), the fajita is completed with fresh tortillas served piping-hot from “El Machino,” a large assembly line oven that produces a tortillas every 53 seconds, served to guests in less than three minutes.

Not to be outdone are the quesadillas, served in both traditional and creative variations. The Taste of Napa Valley quesadilla features creamy brie cheese melted with fresh chicken, sliced crisp apples and sweet tequila-caramelized onions, then folded in a garlic-herb tortilla with spicy mango salsa. The Tuscan ‘Dilla is piled high with fresh marinated mozzarella, roasted garlic, fresh basil and sweet vine-ripened tomatoes with mixed greens in balsamic vinaigrette, wrapped in a garlic-herb tortilla.

Fish also plays a major role on Chevys menu, with both fish tacos and mesquite grilled swordfish as regular fixtures. Daily specials highlight seasonal catches such as salmon.

A wide selection of signature margaritas, which include seasonal flavors such as December’s cranberry, are available, as are several desserts, which deserve contemplation. Try the oddly named ice cream baked potato, a “potato” of vanilla ice cream rolled in cinnamon and sugar, presented atop a chewy fresh-baked brownie and chocolate sauce, then topped with whipped cream.