Whether you press or pour, here’s how to brew good coffee

Published 8:00 pm Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Sam Bargreen, one of the brothers in Everett’s Bargreen coffee dynasty, used to make his coffee using the old cowboy method.

He’d boil water in a saucepan, let it cool slightly, then add a generous heap of coarse grounds. After about 10 minutes, he’d pour the clear, strong brew off the top.

Today’s coffee enthusiasts use a bit (but not much) more sophisticated methods to extract flavor from the precious beans.

Far from the fancy and expensive home-espresso machines, the best brewing methods are simple and inexpensive and make the best cup of Joe possible at home.

Coffee enthusiasts can argue endlessly about how to recreate the coffee-shop flavor at home. For some, the French press, or plunger pot, is the only way to go. The newest trend is a return to the “pour over,” a single cup of hand-poured drip coffee.

“Single cup brewers are not new, but they are in revival,” said Howie Bargreen, Sam’s brother and the owner of Bargreen Coffee Co. in Everett.

Following some simple steps can help home brewers make excellent coffee, Sarah Jane Hoppe said. Hoppe is a cafe manager at Seattle’s Victrola Coffee Roasters, a gourmet coffee roaster owned by Mukilteo businessman Dan Ollis.

“Make a small amount of coffee at a time,” she said.

Control all the aspects of the brewing process to deliver a fresh, clean cup each time.

Here’s the most important things to remember according to Hoppe and Bargreen.

It’s all in the bean: Beans can vary widely in flavor depending on their origin, the blend and the roast. Try to buy beans that have been freshly roasted and use them within 14 days. Keep beans at room temperature in an airtight container.

Meet your maker: Choose a “pour over” single-cup maker such as a porcelain Melitta style (about $10) or a French press plunger pot (about $25). The “pour over” requires paper filters and produces a cleaner cup, while the French press provides a bit fuller taste but leaves behind some sediment.

Water temperature: If the water is too hot, it can scald the beans and make a bitter cup. The ideal water temperature is between 195 and 203 degrees, just off boiling. You can install an instant hot water tank and set the precise temperature or just let the kettle sit for a minute after boiling.

Use the right grind: It’s best to grind the beans just before they’re brewed. Use a burr grinder (about $50) instead of a spice, or blade, grinder. Burr grinders crush the beans evenly, producing more flavor and a more consistent grind.

Stir it up: If using the pour-over method, measure the hot water carefully to avoid overfilling, and pour the water in a circular motion to properly saturate the grounds. Wait for the grounds to “bloom,” when they produce a gorgeous “crema,” an almost creamy release of the bean’s gases.

With a plunger pot, pour in the water and try to wet all the grounds. Set a timer for four minutes and give the grounds a good stir after one minute has passed. At the end of four minutes, carefully press the plunger down.

Something to warm up to: Don’t put nice, fresh-brewed hot coffee into a cold mug. Run hot water through your coffee cup to heat it up a bit first.

Keeping it clean: Coffee oils build up on equipment and can go rancid over time, Hoppe said. After all, coffee is an organic product. Keep everything clean by running it through the dishwasher or using a clean rag to carefully wipe it off.

Customize: Add cream, milk or sugar. Or just enjoy it as is.

Beans and advice: You can buy coffee beans and makers almost anywhere these days. To get expert advice and freshly roasted beans, try these two local experts.

• Bargreen Coffee Co., 2821 Rucker Ave., Everett; www.bargeencoffee.com.

• Victrola Coffee Roasters, several locations on Seattle’s Capitol Hill; www.victrolacoffee.com.

Jackson Holtz: 425-339-3447; jholtz@heraldnet.com.