Edmonds a hotbed for hotcakes

Published 8:48 am Thursday, February 28, 2008

Though it was impossible to tell from her itsy bitsy frame, my grandma had a hefty appetite. It must have been from lugging around that five-pound anchor she called a purse all day.

At any rate, she had some pretty high standards when it came to eating out. And no local establishment received a more ringing endorsement than the Family Pancake House, an Edmonds staple for the past 25 years.

The gift certificates I’d give her for birthdays and holidays were always cashed in before the ink was dry. She and my grandpa were among an ever-growing band of Family Pancake House regulars and proud of it.

I can see why.

As its name indicates, the Family Pancake House (across from the Aurora Marketplace on Highway 99) is a hotbed of hot cakes and other homestyle favorites.

Flapjacks are the specialty here and the cooks don’t fiddle with the griddle. Only made-from-scratch mixes are used to create golden, dollar-size cakes — stacked 10 high on some platters.

There’s a pancake for every palate and the Family Pancake House has them all: Buttermilk, honeywheat, buckwheat, corn, cherry, strawberry, Swedish, blueberry, apple, banana, potato, oatmeal. You name it.

The fruity selections are topped with homemade compote and whipped cream and the water-based buckwheat cakes are egg-free.

“We use darker, wheat flour. They come out looking a lot like chocolate pancakes,” said manager John Nielsen.

Too many flavors to choose from?

Go for the “very berry” French toast or the “very nut and berry” waffle — my grandpa’s current standby — smothered with blueberries, strawberry compote, sliced banana and nuts, and served with two strips of bacon.

A well-rounded roster of omelettes and other traditional breakfast fare — chicken friend steak and eggs, ham and eggs, biscuits and homemade gravy, etc. — are also available.

So is a trio of patriotic combos. The Betsy Ross: juice, one egg, three cakes; the George Washington: one egg, one bacon, three cakes; and the Paul Revere: juice, two eggs, two bacon, three cakes.

Until 11 a.m., there’s a $4.25 breakfast special of two eggs, two bacon or sausage and two pancakes, French toast slices or toast.

Nielsen guessed breakfast dishes represent at least three-fourths of the restaurant’s business. But the extensive menu also offers a full slate of lunch and dinner meals, highlighted by homemade meatloaf and slow-roasted prime rib.

The Family Pancake House is one of the few remaining eateries that still cuts its own French fries and the hash browns and mashed potatoes are made from the real thing too.

“We do a lot of the old, homestyle cooking,” Nielsen said.

An experienced, first-class wait staff adds to the warm, family atmosphere. Four employees have been at the Edmonds franchise since it opened.

“We’re home to a lot of customers as well as employees,” Nielsen said.

The first Family Pancake House franchise was founded in 1963 and there are six Puget Sound locations in all.