More than a museum

Published 9:00 pm Saturday, October 2, 2004

T he Los Angeles area attracts tourists like neighborhood children to the Popsicle man.

These Southern California treats include Disneyland, Hollywood, Universal Studios, Catalina Island, Santa Monica pier, the La Brea Tar Pits and at least 50 more venues, each worthy of a day’s exploration.

Often overlooked, and possibly the best reason of all to visit Los Angeles, is the J. Paul Getty Center.

In the interest of brevity one might simply call the Getty a museum, but that would be like describing a fine cabernet sauvignon as grape juice.

First of all, take its commanding location high atop the foothills of the Santa Monica Mountains.

The Getty stands like a citadel overlooking Los Angeles with views of the Pacific Ocean. Its white stone exterior emulates the mystic grandeur of a modern fairy-tale castle. A grandiose architectural delight, it opened in 1997 after 10 years of construction with a $1 billion price tag.

Funded and operated by the J. Paul Getty Trust, however, the center offers free admission.

The 110-acre terraced campus encompasses five two-story pavilions of the J. Paul Getty Museum and the satellite buildings of the Auditorium, the Research Institute, the Conservation Institute and the Getty Grant Program plus the Central Garden.

Guests enjoy a -mile tram ride, paralleling the ridge, to reach the center. This ascent-entry succeeds in transporting visitors beyond their everyday lives into an elevated, new world of art and beauty.

Water trickles everywhere. It greeted us in the arrival plaza bubbling from spouts near a wall topped with hanging vines and then flowed past us in a gentle cascading ladder as we climbed the stairs to the main entrance. It caught up to us again in the courtyard where it played around natural boulders and before green landscapes, all with a conspicuous absence of any statuary that might attempt to rival the masterpieces inside the galleries.

We perused exhibits of photography, sculpture and ornate, opulent furniture, and absorbed centuries of classic, enduring art. The Getty collections include art from 2500 B.C. to our modern era.

Of particular interest to my husband were the glass-enclosed exhibits of illuminated manuscripts from the Middle Ages. These hand-printed, hand-decorated writings are intricately illustrated, much of it in gold. The glitter and gleam of real gold reflecting from those venerable pages can only be appreciated in person.

I found my delight among the paintings, which are displayed on the upper floor where skylight louvers reflect natural light into the galleries. I was overwhelmed by Renoir’s painting “La Promenade” (1870.) The young lady’s dress glowed with the luminescence painted into it by the artist and retained for the viewer through the natural light.

Each of the four main pavilions has a room devoted to arts information. In one room a docent invited me to run my hands over the cold, smooth surface of a marble statue while he narrated the personal story of the sculptor and his subject, describing the many steps involved in creating a sculpture.

There are 54 galleries in the museum and you’d have to be Superman to see everything in one day. Wearing comfortable shoes is a must, as well as leaving any unnecessary encumbrances in the car.

The Getty has a restaurant, for which reservations are recommended, and two cafes plus a picnic area in the arrival plaza. Snacks are also available from coffee carts about the complex.

We ate lunch outdoors at the Garden Terrace Cafe, relishing soups, salads and sandwiches. No dawdling for us, however, as we were eager to see the Central Garden.

The Central Garden is a dramatic focal point of the grounds. The overall impression is that of a giant bowl scooped into the hillside and then profusely and elegantly landscaped with 500 varieties of plants. A waterfall splashes into the bottom of the bowl creating a large reflecting pool in which a maze of azaleas appears to float.

Overlooking the garden is a plaza strikingly highlighted by six umbrella-like arbors of crimson bougainvillea. Taken in its entirety the garden is a manmade work of art, employing nature’s bounty and beauty.

In the Getty’s aim to ensure an enjoyable visit, docent-led tours explaining the architecture, art pieces and the gardens are available throughout the day.

The Getty also has a changing schedule of lectures, films and performances. Coming events are posted on the Web site for times and reservations.

Weekend family activities at the Getty are designed to appeal to parents and children alike. Together they are introduced to art through gallery tours and Family Room fun.

Savoring our Getty experience, we left this hilltop aerie planning a return visit at the earliest opportunity.

Cindy Burby is a local freelance travel writer and photographer.