Pull into the Depot Cafe and Smokehouse for barbecue done right

Published 3:31 pm Friday, November 20, 2009

It’s barbecue weather.

I know what you’re thinking. Isn’t summer the season of grilling? Either that, or, it’s always barbecue weather.

I’d lean more toward the latter opinion myself. But particularly when the rains come down and the wind starts to howl, I crave a slab of smoked meat slathered in just the right amount of sauce to drag into my den of self-imposed hibernation and devour forthwith. At least, that’s what my stomach is thinking.

The Depot Cafe and Smokehouse near Everett Station fills these twin needs for comfort and the comestible.

Opened in 2004, the Smokehouse offers up a range of traditional smoked barbecue plates in a variety of regional styles, from sweet Carolina to smoky Texas. There hasn’t been much change to the Smokehouse’s menu in those five years — and that’s a good thing. Tradition is as innate to good barbecue as timing.

Like other restaurants, the recession has hit the Smokehouse hard.

The restaurant displays more ribbons from barbecue competitions than it sees customers many days. The converted depot station, which dates to 1900, doesn’t seat many people and, unfortunately for winning pit master Gil Ruiz, still doesn’t always fill up.

And with a bare-bones staff, it isn’t uncommon to see a “closed” sign during advertised open hours — be it for an out-of-state competition or an illness. The lunch-time work crowd is what feeds this business.

But let’s cut to the chase here. My stomach is growling.

We came for lunch and started with a shared bowl of navy bean pulled pork soup ($5.95). Now, I’m tempted to stop right here, because all I needed was that soup — creamy base, savory meat flavoring the beans, rich, satisfying — a siren call on any blustery day.

If you’re not too hungry (snicker), then you can have this soup, throw on a side of organic corn bread ($2.50) and call yourself satisfied.

But you know you came for the meat.

Ruiz takes pride in what he does and the menu descriptions here and there show that.

My dining partner ordered the pulled pork sandwich ($8.95) — “pulled not shredded,” as the menu repeats — that is done in the Carolina style. Sandwiches come with a choice of one side dish, in this case the “Fire Cracker” coleslaw that’s spiked with horseradish. (That said, it took a number of bites of the slaw to feel any kind of blast.)

The plate was good for the price — large, hearty, satisfying — and had just the right amount of sweetness without overpowering the tender meat.

To balance the sweetness anyway, I ordered a huge plate of ribs, chicken and sausage ($17.95). And I do mean huge. Three spare ribs, literally half a chicken and a chunky Louisiana hot link were piled together in a pool of tangy sauce. And that doesn’t count the two side dishes that came with the entree.

The veritable bathtub of sauce worried me. I like sauce but not that much. I need not have worried. The spare ribs, which were truly spare on the meat, needed the help. And one cut into the chicken revealed deliciously white, juicy flesh (the leftovers in the fridge were still calling to me afterward). I saved the sausage for my husband because I’m a wimp.

For the sides, I’d recommend the cold Southwestern corn salad, which is refreshing against the slabs of meat. The savory country style beans, made with black beans, pulled pork, pan juices and molasses, was quite good.

All sides, on their own, are $2.50. The choices include french fries and red potato salad.

Take-out orders are welcome. You can also buy meat by the pound that way ($9.95 to $12.95), as well as bottles of Ruiz’s Red Wolf barbecue sauce ($5).

The menu also has a healthy list of wines and microbrews, a few lovely-sounding desserts (such as peach cobbler, $5.25, and Thomas Kemper root beer floats, $5.25). Both make me wish the Smokehouse was open for dinner more often.

As it is, on days they do serve dinner, if you’re coming from outside Everett, I’d recommend calling ahead to make sure they’re open.

The Depot Cafe and Smokehouse

3201 McDougall Ave., Everett; 425-257-3140; www.depotcafebbq.com

Specialty: Barbecue

Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday; 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday through Saturday

Price range: Inexpensive to moderate

Alcohol: Wine and beer

Credit cards: Accepted