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For tequila and fresh Mexican fare, head north to COA in La Conner

Published 1:30 am Friday, July 29, 2016

LA CONNER — On two summer Saturdays straight, we worked hard out in the yard. Hot, sore and hungry at the end of day, my husband and I thought nothing sounded better than Mexican food.

COA Mexican Eatery and Tequleria in La Conner, a sister restaurant of the COA in Mount Vernon, was the perfect place to get our fix. COA offers fresh, delicious fare that doesn’t much resemble the average Mexican chain restaurant, and that made us happy.

If you live in north Snohomish County, this is just a short drive away. Check it out.

The eatery is named for the spade-like cutting tool used to harvest agave plants. There’s even a coa hanging on the wall near the tequila bar. After the leaves and roots are sliced off by the coa, what’s left is the core of the agave — “the pineapple” — which is used to make tequila.

Ever taken the train west from Guadalajara? If so, you traveled through the fields of blue agave pictured in photos on the colorful interior walls of COA. It’s nice inside, but the restaurant also has a charming, shady outdoor seating area that’s lovely for summer.

COA claims to have the best margaritas in the region. We won’t argue with that.

So far, we’ve tried the blue margarita, with agave tequila and nectar, fresh lime juice and blue curacao liquor for $8; the whopper cadillac margarita with lots of fruit for $9; and the lucious tequila sunrise with agave tequila, orange juice and hint of grenadine.

Also available are a variety of Mexican beers and a “Mexican martini.” You can even try a flight of the different tequilas on hand.

While you are sipping your ‘rita, order an appetizer. We tried the tostones, which are smashed green plantains topped with COA’s signature roasted poblano crema and queso fresco, and arranged artfully in little servings on a long plate. Perfect for sharing, the tostones are $6. One also could order this for not-so-sweet dessert.

On our next visit, we got the wild cod ceviche for $8. Wow. The fresh cold cod comes with bits of cukes, tomatoes, house-made pickled onions, serrano peppers and very sweet mango. This could be a meal for one person.

The restaurant serves other small plates such as crispy tacos, a small burrito with mole, an enchilada with the green sauce, all about $8 or $9.

The dinners — in a category called “Mexiconner” — must be accompanied by tequila, the menu says. Agreed.

Tequila pairs well with all of it, including the queso-covered pinto beans served with most dishes. The bean skin is still firm, but the insides are as creamy as any refried bean dip.

We can recommend the tres enchiladas, which are corn tortillas filled your choice of meat (try the slow-roasted pork), rolled and covered with green crema sauce for $14. The sauce is a tasty house-made specialty and worthy of its use with many dishes.

Speaking of sauces, my husband likes mole. Pollo en mole ($15) combines tasty bits of chicken swathed in a mole that COA imports from Mexico City. The menu says it’s made from scratch by a group of older women who use no less than 30 ingredients to achieve a taste that offers just the right balance of chocolate and cinnamon.

Northwest grilled fish tacos ($15) are accompanied by a perfect mango pico de gallo, and are one of the menu items that truly constitutes a summer meal.

The Mount Vernon Farmers Market gave an award to COA’s chile relleno, for good reason. The grilled fresh poblano chile is filled with queso, fried in an egg batter and topped with the poblano crema. I wish I could eat this for breakfast every week. Good for supper, too, for $12.

For dessert, the house-made flan ($6) has a firm texture that elevates it above common custards.

Next time we visit, we’ll go big with the most expensive plate on the menu: The molcajete. For $20, it’s a huge pile of grilled pollo (chicken), camarones (prawns) and carne asada (skirt steak) topped with pico de gallo and served with sour cream, guacamole and, of course, rice and beans.

Some of COA’s standing specials include $1 tacos on Tuesdays, $5 margaritas on Fridays and Customer Appreciation Day on the last Monday of the month, when patrons receive 50 percent off the bill if it’s paid in cash.

The attentive servers at the COA in La Conner are friendly, educated and eager to talk about the food. Especially when people come in tired and hungry.

COA Mexican Eatery and Tequileria

214 Maple Ave., La Conner

360-466-0267

www.facebook.com/COA-mexican-eatery-in-La-Conner

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

Alcohol: Full bar