Steakhouse building new image

EVERETT – Overcoming the image of being a biker bar is like playing horseshoes with a broken stake, but that’s what the new owner of the Horseshoe Saloon in downtown Everett is trying to do.

Walt Blush re-opened the Horseshoe Saloon in March as a smoke-free jazz and blues steakhouse. He said the Horseshoe was built to be a watering hole in Everett’s early years. The beautiful hand-carved bar was made in the 1920s and is placed against the original brickwork of the building. The place feels like a steakhouse with good jazz and blues.

Unfortunately, the Saturday night I visited the crowd was sparse despite the performance by a popular blues band. Blush chalked it up to the location’s former reputation, which he is working to overcome.

Not being a motorcycle club member who visited the Horseshoe before its extreme makeover, I can’t compare the differences. But I can tell you this place serves great steaks with attentive service. In fact, it’s one of the few places I’ve found that grills a T-bone steak. ($20). For you New York strip lovers, it’s $19, as is the rib eye. Sirloin is $17 and the filet is $21. All the steaks are eight to 14 ounces.

Other entree choices include pork chops or pork tenderloin ($16.95 and $18.95), and baskets that include fries or onion rings with a burger, beer-battered halibut, butterfly shrimp or chicken strips ($8.95) There’s also rice and shrimp or garlic chicken and rice ($15.95 each). The customer next to me at the bar ordered the garlic chicken, which disappeared quickly. When asked if it was good, he nodded between large bites.

Remaining true to my cattle-ranching roots, I ordered the T-bone with a baked potato and salad. Other sides include garlic mashed potatoes, onion rings or pasta salad. My salad was made with leafy green lettuce instead of iceberg, and sprinkled with carrot strips, cucumber slices and grape-size tomatoes.

I ordered the house blue cheese dressing on the side. My server confirmed that blue cheese is blended into the dressing as well as added to the salad, giving it an extra rich flavor. The fresh potato was perfectly baked and my sour cream and butter arrived on the side, as requested. So much for the side dishes. I realize this is a steakhouse. How was my T-bone? Perfect. Grilled medium rare, as ordered. Tender. Without heavy seasonings to drown the natural flavor.

My server, who was doing double duty as bartender, checked on my satisfaction twice. Maybe I wasn’t convincing enough. Chef Paul Quilty came out of the kitchen to also inquire about my satisfaction, and then the owner triple-checked my satisfaction.

I paired my steak with a glass of Sangiovese ($9). Although the saloon’s wine list is short, it features selections from California, Oregon, Washington, Australia and Chile that go well with the menu. A glass ranges from $5 to $11 and bottles are $20 to $36.

The beer selections are a point of pride for the new owner and he’s selected seven to be on tap including a Belgian brew.

The dessert menu includes cheesecake, key lime pie and toll house cookie pie. Because I’d never had a cookie as pie filling, I couldn’t resist the toll house cookie pie ($6). It’s a cookie inside a pastry crust, and made in-house. I highly recommend it whether you enjoy steaks and blues or not.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

E-mail Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.