Spring tune-up

Published 12:01 am Sunday, May 1, 2011

It probably has been sitting idle for months, and if you want it to ride smoothly and efficiently, it’s time your bike got a quick tune-up.

Two simple things that will make your bike ride better is properly inflating the tires and cleaning and lubricating the chain. Beyond that, you should a

lso learn the basics of your bike and how to maintain it. Here are some guidelines, and how to know when it’s time to visit your local bike shop:

TIRES
Check the recommended air pressure on the sidewalls and inflate the tires to within that range. Higher air pressure means less rolling resistance and reduces the chance of pinch flats. It also means less traction and a harsher ride.

Lower tire pressure means a softer ride and more traction, but it requires more pedaling effort because of increased rolling resistance.

Varying the air pressure is one of the simplest ways to fine-tune your bike. Experiment on different terrain to see what pressure best suits your riding style.

You can also add Slime or similar products to avoid small punctures, or you can invest in a tubeless system.

See a mechanic if … tire treads are excessively worn or the sidewalls are cracked, split or frayed, in which case you probably need new tires.

CHAIN
A clean, lubricated chain is critical to efficient pedaling and smooth shifting.

The best way to clean it is to remove the chain from the bike by finding the master link or by using a chain breaker, which is a small, inexpensive tool.

Soak the chain in a solvent or hot water with a grease-cutting detergent and scrub it clean. Rinse it and allow it to dry, then lubricate it.

When the chain is off, clean the rear cassette (the cluster of sprockets) and the front chain rings.

If you don’t want to remove the chain, there are kits available that help you clean it while it’s on your bike.

See a mechanic if … the chain is excessively rusty, links are stiff or the chain jumps on the cassette or chain rings. Bike shops have a gauge that determines whether the chain has overstretched.

BRAKES
For discs brakes, squeeze the brake levers; the resistance should steadily increase. If they feel spongy or the lever goes all the way to the handlebar, you could have a leak in the brake line, your pads may be worn, or your calipers could be out of adjustment.

Ensure the rotors are not excessively rubbing against the brake pads. Spin the tires and listen for rubbing.

For rim brakes, check the cable to see if it has slipped or stretched. Make sure the pads are properly contacting the rim when the brakes are engaged. Pads should not hang under the rim or touch the tires.
Check for wear on the brake pads. Most pads have vertical grooves, and if the grooves are shallow or filled with residue, it may be time for new ones.

Scour the rim of your wheel with a mildly abrasive pad or fine steel wool to remove brake pad residue.

See a mechanic if … your brake pads are worn and need to be replaced, or if your brakes are rubbing, squealing, squeaking or not providing adequate stopping power.

SHIFTERS AND DERAILLEURS
Ride the bike and shift through all its gears to make sure it is shifting properly. The bike should shift quickly and smoothly. It should not rattle, rub against the derailleur, skip gears or change gears by itself. You can make minor derailleur adjustments with the barrel adjusters on your shifters, but do so very gradually — like a quarter- or half-turn at a time.

There’s also a barrel adjuster on your rear derailleurs, and limit screws that keep it from letting the chain go too far up or down.

See a mechanic if … you have cleaned and lubed the entire drive train and the bike still doesn’t shift properly.

SUSPENSIONS
Check the air pressure in your shock and fork. See your owner’s manual for the proper pressure or go to the manufacturer’s website to find it.

Check for leaks by putting a little soapy water near the seals and watching for bubbles.

Look for signs of any oil seeping or leaking out of the shock, fork or seat post. Compress your shock or fork and release it. It should be smooth and progressive, not springy or bouncy.

See a mechanic if … There are leaks, rough spots in the travel or clunking. Forks and shocks also need periodic inspection by a mechanic. Check your owner’s manual.

CRANKS/BOTTOM BRACKET/PEDALS
These tend to be pretty low maintenance, but they can be the source of annoying creaks and squeaks.

Cranks and bottom brackets should be removed periodically and inspected, which takes special tools.
If you have clipless pedals, make sure your cleats properly engage and release.

See a mechanic if … Your cranks don’t turn smoothly or there are weird noises when you pedal, or you want your bottom bracket inspected and don’t have the tools.

YOUR RIDING GEAR
Helmet: Check it for cracks, worn straps and buckles. If the helmet is more than 5 years old, you may want to replace it, depending on how much you ride. Over time, the foam can become brittle.

If the pads smells funky, remove and wash them in mild soap. You can put them in an old sock, tie off the top and throw them in the washer and dryer.

Shoes: If you have biking shoes with cleats, check the screws in the sole to ensure they are tight and the cleats are secure to the shoe. Cleats wear out over time and may need to be replaced if they don’t properly engage and release from the pedal.

Hydration pack: The bladder can get moldy or just have a funky odor. To get rid of it, rinse the bladder with a solution of baking soda and water.

If the bladder, tube or valve have a dark gunk, run a mild solution of warm water and bleach through it.
Rinse thoroughly afterward.

Tool kit: Inventory your emergency tools and check your tire patch kit to make sure it has patches and the glue hasn’t dried inside the tube.