Welcome, Maddox Grill & Bar
Published 9:00 pm Thursday, May 27, 2004
LYNNWOOD – King County’s loss is Snohomish County’s gain with the move of Maddox Grill &Bar to its new location about a month ago.
According to my friendly server, the Maddox Grill moved from Richmond Beach after 15 years “because there wasn’t a choice. It was a space situation.” Owners Rick and Sue Maddox selected the new location because everything was ready, right down to the dishes, my server said. All the staff came to the new location, as did most of their customers, who filled more than half the spacious dining room on my Thursday night visit.
Previously, the restaurant space was Baldy’s Burgers and Brew, and it’s located close to the Meadowdale and Lynndale play fields. The Maddoxes, whose former location became a neighborhood landmark, are attempting to combine the original grill’s fine dining menu while serving families coming home from the ballgame. They expanded the menu to include selections for kids that range from $3.95 to $5.95, and sandwiches. My server said the pulled pork will be the signature sandwich.
With the Mariners in such a slump, I didn’t feel like a sandwich and microbrew near one of the television sets at the bar, which runs the width of the dining room. Instead, I selected one of that night’s three specials – halibut in a curry-orange sauce ($16.95). I paired it with a glass of Erath pinot gris ($5.50) and added a small Gorgonzola-pear salad ($8.95).
Other Pacific Northwest favorites on the menu are steamed clams ($9.95), Penn Cove mussels ($8.95), Dungeness crab cakes ($7.95) clam chowder in a bread bowl ($9.95) and cioppino ($14.25).
My salad was an inviting mix of baby greens punctuated with candied pecans, and perfectly topped with crumbled Gorgonzola bits and a light vinaigrette dressing. The pear slices were the mystery. Why go to all that trouble to candy the pecans and crown the greens with excellent cheese but use canned pears?
There was no questionable call with the entree. The chef’s skill at grilling fish was evident because it was perfect. I expected the curry-orange sauce to be too dominating for the delicate fish, but it wasn’t. There was just enough curry and orange flavors for a subtle accent. The side dish of eggplant, onions and mushrooms had just enough green chili to make it interesting without being too spicy. A flavorful pilaf of white and wild rice with bits of green onions and diced carrots completed the meal.
For dessert, my server offered carrot cake, cheesecake or burnt cream ($4.95). Burnt cream is the English name for creme brulee and, like grilling fish, tests the skill of a chef. A cup of coffee and my dessert, still warm from caramelizing the sugar, provided a smooth, meal-ending finish.
After this superb dinner, a pulled pork sandwich and microbrew – sometime soon, Mariners or no – sounds pretty good.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.
Anna Poole: features@heraldnet.com
Maddox Grill &Bar
18411 Highway 99, Lynnwood; 425-778-2223
Specialty: American and Pacific Northwest favorites
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Happy hour 3-6 p.m., Monday through Friday
Price range: moderate to expensive
Liquor: full bar
Smoking: non-smoking
Reservations: recommended for large parties
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
Maddox Grill &Bar
18411 Highway 99, Lynnwood; 425-778-2223
Specialty: American and Pacific Northwest favorites
Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; Happy hour 3-6 p.m., Monday through Friday
Price range: moderate to expensive
Liquor: full bar
Smoking: non-smoking
Reservations: recommended for large parties
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
