Wine by the glass: Let us rant and rave

Published 9:00 pm Saturday, June 12, 2004

I have both a rant and a rave to share today. As you may have noticed, criticism is not a main component in my public interpretation of the world of wine. In fact, I’ve been criticized for not being more of a critic. So, why this sudden shift of position? Well, as I composed my rave, I realized there was a burr in my saddle regarding wine and the way it does or does not get dispensed by the glass in many restaurants. Let me explain, starting with:

My rant

With the premium wine industry in the state of Washington exploding at an unprecedented pace, it seems natural that an appreciation for the beverage beyond what I consider the status quo should accompany this amazing growth of truly high quality local wine selections.

After all, you can quench your thirst with a good microbrew just about anywhere, but trying to satisfy a yearning for a premium, interesting glass of wine is a bit more of a challenge. The huge refinery-style wineries, most of which are in California, have a stranglehold on the single-glass pours in most restaurant wine lists. There are many cleverly cloaked second labels meant to give the impression that they’re small independent wineries, but they’re really still part of the behemoth industrial vintners that make up a disproportionate amount of the restaurant glass pours in this area.

I don’t mean to say that these wines are horribly bad, undrinkable plonk. Many to which I’ve been directed by curiously overmotivated wait staff have been pleasant enough and inoffensive. I’m also sure that it’s easier and more efficient to limit a list of wines available by the glass and not burden staff with the need to maintain an awareness of the many varieties of available local and global wines. Yet, taking the chance that the consumer base might just appreciate a wider selection and different options might just result in a better experience for the customer. That better experience might also be reflected in that best of incentives for the staff and ownership – the gratuity.

Another nit-picking detail I’d like to point out stems from the sad vessels in which most restaurants serve their wine. The investment in glassware that can dramatically improve the overall experience of the patrons is a must in this cork dork’s opinion. One way to limit the initial expense of acquiring better stemware is at first to limit using the good stemware for the better wines. When a customer sees someone else enjoying a glass of wine from a beautiful glass it just might encourage him or her to consider expanding his own palate and potentially the wine list of the restaurant.

My dear Aunt Vera has always said, “If you don’t have something nice to say, then it’s best just to not say anything.” Well, sorry Auntie, I’ll try hard to not disappoint too much in the future. So let’s move along to:

My rave

Following a tip received through the grapevine, I visited a new restaurant in the south Everett area that was said to be really good and had an interesting list of wines. To my total delight, I discovered Zinnia Cafe. Once inside, beyond its rather nondescript strip mall exterior, I suddenly thought, “Now we’re talking…this place is great.”

The partitioned entrance shielded the interior initially but added a cozy, homey first impression. I was drawn to the warm colors of the space with an eggplant hew on the ceiling and the dramatic full wall painting of the flower from which the restaurant takes its name. The distressed white antique furniture, white linens, and the beaded, crystal chandelier that serves as a focal point in the center of the candle-lit room spoke of the style and attention to detail that’s part of this little diamond in the rough.

Matthew greeted us with courteous professionalism and offered us their fresh sheet menu and wine list. I actually said aloud, “giddy-up!” while surveying the options available by the glass. Finally there’s a place willing to take a stab at offering wines from off the beaten path and at prices that actually make sense.

Without hesitation, I ordered a glass of a Bordeaux-style blend from a brand-new Walla Walla producer that I didn’t expect to find in any restaurant, let alone by the glass. Regretfully, Matthew informed me that the wine had been going like wildfire and they were currently out of stock.

“What? A high end red wine from a relatively unknown Washington winery is flowing like water in a restaurant that just opened?” I took this as a glimpse into the crystal ball at what other restaurants will soon come to mimic. Nothing is more plagiarized than success, and by all accounts, Zinnia Cafe is worthy of that attention. By the way, in another pleasant surprise, the glassware was also quite worthy of its contents.

Our food was delicious and expertly prepared by chef Joseph Bounds, who believes in a fresh, interesting, seasonal approach to his preparations. I can best describe the style as “comfy-gourmet.” I think the Zinnia Cafe could easily become a regular haunt for this only slightly fussy non-critic.

If you’d like to visit the trailblazing kids at Zinnia Cafe, you can find Matthew, Joseph, Kimberly and Christopher at 13416 Bothell-Everett Highway #203, Mill Creek, 425-357-0512.

Jeff Wicklund, wine consultant and writer, is the proprietor of Colby Hospitality in Everett. He can be reached at 425-317-9858, or wick@colbyhospitality.com.