Best white wines for under $20

Published 9:00 pm Saturday, October 29, 2005

Typically, All Hallows Eve celebrations are met with a fermented grape drink resembling a beverage that would delight Vlad Dracul himself. A blood-red wine such as a vampire merlot, werewolf cabernet sauvignon or a simple scary syrah would seem to be the order of the day but, what is more frightening than the unexpected? Boo! (Did I get you?)

I’d like to ask those who wish to gather around the cauldron, broom stick in hand, and slurp down those viscous, inky grade, foreboding red wines just one question: Is it a coincidence that fright rhymes with white? I think not.

I would like to, at this point, rest my case and offer up the second installment of Wick’s Top 20 at or under $20, the frightfully delightful whites addition.

Dopff &Irion 2003 Crustaces, $11

The Alsace region of France is where this refreshing blend of sylvaner (90 percent) and pinot blanc (10 percent) originates and the trademark colorful lobster, crab and fish on the label tells the story of what pairs perfectly with this wine.

It has a brilliant pale yellow color with fresh and pleasant aromas of green tea, tropical fruit and minerals. Lightly sweet but not cloying, it’s a total crowd pleaser for any wayward ghouls that may happen to wander into the mausoleum.

Chappellet 2003 ‘Dry’ Chenin Blanc, $13

What a great alternative for anyone interested in deviating from the standard California chardonnay. Tantalizing, titillating and completely tempting are the bursting fruity aromas of casaba melon, green apple and pear with floral undertones. On the palate are seamless flavors of nectarine, peach, citrus and apple with hints of honey and almonds.

A delicious wine to sip on its own but paired with spicy Asian dishes, seafood, seasoned pork or grilled chicken, this beautifully crafted juice may wake the grateful dead.

Bloom 2004 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Riesling, $7

Precept Brands is a new wine company that was launched in 2003 by a collection of industry folks bent on scouring the globe to bring to market the best wines possible at the best prices. This little German beauty is certainly no exception.

The Bloom line of wines are tough to miss on the shelf with their striking hot pink and leaf-green labels and they are even tougher to pass up because they represent great wine at fair prices.

This riesling conjures up a bevy of peach and pear aromas and flavors that mingle with a mineral character that makes for a refreshing, light and thoroughly food-friendly wine. There is definitely way more treat than there is trick with this wine.

Dom Salvard Cheverny, $13

If you happen to adore the light, mineral, tangy, fruit-scented wines of France’s Loire Valley around the village of Sancerre but are a bit reluctant to fork over the necessary coin to make that acquisition, then this is the wine for you.

Quite simply a delicious wine that revels in clean, fresh, bright, steely fruit flavors and aromas, and leaves you yearning for something shucked.

Cristalino NV Cristalino Brut, $9

What better way to kick off any celebration (even one involving goblins) than with a bit o’ bubbly. And this particular Spanish sparkler has to be one of the most consistently reliable effervescent beverages on the market. It’s as if the Mimosa and Bellini gods were smiling on all of us when this cava came to be.

It possesses a light straw color with fresh aromas of citrus and Granny Smith apples. The thing that’s most surprising about this dry, clean and correct sparkler is its silky smoothness as it caresses your palate. I think you would find that this cava will compare favorably to the real thing in the $20 to $40 price range. (The real thing would be true French Champagne; if you really want to be scared this Halloween, go and price a Dom Perignon or Roederer’s Cristal.)

Toad Hollow 2004 ‘Francine’s Selection’ Mendocino County Chardonnay, $14

I reviewed this wine in the “less oak is more” column and I think it deserves a repeat performance. The trend to inject less oak in California chardonnay is wholly dependent upon the acceptance of the consumers, which indicates a palate evolution or perhaps even a revolution.

Less oak means lower production costs, which trickles down to lower bottle prices and, the icing on the bottle, is that you can actually taste the chard.

Try this tasty treat and inject a little toad into your Holloween. It’s amphibiously good.

Brandborg 2003 Umpqua Valley Pinot Gris, $15

The fruit that was used too make this tremendous wine came from the southern part of Oregon down around Roseburg.

It’s extremely rich and aromatic with gobs of tropical fruit, toasted almonds and honey on the palate. The great thing about this wine is that with all of its rich, mouth-filling fruit it finishes dry. This makes for a great accompaniment with grilled seafood, smoked turkey or herb-crusted, free-range chicken. Which, by the way, are the three favorite foods of Oregon gremlins, beavers and ducks just as long as it’s before midnight.

Tapata Wines 2004 Marlborough Sauvignon Banc, $15

New on the market, this brilliant New Zealand sauvignon blanc captures all the delicious nuances that this stunningly beautiful area of the world brings to this grape. The Tapata family heritage is all about respect for the earth and to … “Sip from the goblet of nature as this is what she intended. Tread the soils of now into those of yesterday and build tomorrow’s foundation,” says K.R. Tapata. Crisp and lively on the palate with fresh lemon-lime, gooseberry, pineapple and mineral flavors that just go on and on. The only thing scary about this wine is not being able to put it down.

Campbells NV Rutherglen Muscat, $18 (375 ml)

Oh my! If you really have a sweet tooth, this will definitely fill that cavity. The color is bright amber gold with copper hints and the nose reveals fresh raisin fruit, caramel, honey and a splash of citrus.

This Australian sticky has garnered high praise over the years (mid-90 ratings by some of the “pour-fessionals”) and rightfully so. Gorgeous stuff.

Catena 2003 Chardonnay, $19

Wow! This Argentinean chardonnay is a beauty with a golden yellow color with a hint of green reflections. It boasts concentrated aromas of ripe tropical and citrus fruit with just a touch of spice, vanilla and toast.

The mouthfeel is full, round and soft, with explosive fruit flavors of ripe pears and pineapples and a creamy texture. It just seems to be bursting at the seams to jump into a trick-or-treater’s glass.

Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600 or wick@colby hospitality.com.

His next column will appear on Nov. 3.