Here’s the game plan when your hunter is home

Published 9:00 pm Tuesday, November 15, 2005

This is the time of year when the topic of game is at its hottest.

If you hunt, are married to a hunter or have friends who hunt, chances are that your kitchen has already seen some wildlife action. But you’ve still got time to handle a few more recipes. But first a few pointers.

* Game must be prepared properly in the field to ensure the least amount of gaminess after cooking.

The Oregon State University Extension Service recommends that you obtain the booklet titled “Big Game From Hunt To Home” at your county extension office. You can also read the information on the Internet by going to extension.oregonstate.edu/index.php. Click on “Publications and videos,” and in the “search for” box type in “pnw 517.”

* Dove and quail can be used interchangeably in recipes. Because both are small birds, it takes three to four birds per serving.

* Quail meat is white and tends to be dry when cooked unless handled properly. It takes much of its rich, delicate flavor from the fat lying between skin and flesh. If the birds are skinned before cooking, this fat is lost and flavor and texture will be affected

* Young pheasant is best broiled or baked, whereas, older birds do better with a braising or stewing. Be sure and baste the breast meat frequently during cooking, or use strips of bacon to keep the meat moist.

* Whenever possible, wild geese should be bled in the field. When the bird is not going to be stuffed, place the following in the cavity: piece of peeled lemon, apple slices, peeled onion; remove before serving

* Unlike domesticated ducks, which never fly and are laden with fat, wild ducks are not fatty. They are particularly superb when cooked with spirits – particularly wine or Grand Marnier.

* Older deer or elk can be more gamey and tougher than younger counterparts. By marinating them before cooking, you can tame the toughness and strong flavor.

* It’s OK to treat venison or elk like a piece of beef, but because of its low fat content, you cannot overcook it without it becoming tough

A succulent venison entree featuring the pungent flavor of mustard combined with orange and rosemary in a rich cream sauce. Delicious with fresh pasta

4tablespoons

2tablespoons olive oil

8noisettes (4 to 6 ounces each) of venison cut 3/4-inch thick from the saddle

2tablespoons cognac (or other brandy)

1tablespoon all-purpose flour

2cups heavy cream

1/4cup Dijon-style mustard

2tablespoons freshly grated orange peel

1tablespoon minced fresh rosemary or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary

1/2teaspoon salt

1/4teaspoon freshly ground black

In large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add venison noisettes and saute for 3 minutes per side, turning once. Meat should be rare. Remove to warm platter and cover loosely to keep warm.

To the skillet, add the cognac and flour and deglaze, stirring constantly for about 3 minutes to remove all of the bits of cooked-on meat and flavorings. Whisk together cream and Dijon mustard until thoroughly blended. Pour into the skillet and continue whisking until incorporated. When sauce is heated through, reduce heat and add orange peel and rosemary, then simmer gently for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. To serve, place two noisettes on each plate and coat with sauce.

Makes four servings.

131/2-pound rack of venison or venison sirloin

Marinade (recipe follows)

2tablespoons butter

1-2tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 1/2tablespoons butter, softened

1/2cup sour cream

Wipe venison with damp paper towels, then carefully trim off all visible fat. Place venison in container large enough to hold it, then add marinade and refrigerate for 3 days, turning to coat all sides. Turn it each morning and evening

Remove roast and pat dry. Strain marinade and reserve. In large skillet, brown venison on all sides in 2 tablespoons butter. Add the strained marinade, cover and simmer for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, or until tender. Remove meat to warm platter. Add flour, butter and sour cream to the skillet. Cook, stirring until thickened. To serve, slice meat and pass around with the sauce.

Makes six servings.

Marinade: In a container large enough to hold the venison, combine 2 cups dry red wine, 1 minced stalk of celery, 1 finely chopped carrot, 1 chopped red onion, 1 bay leaf, 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme.

This delicious sausage freezes beautifully, so make lots to use on homemade pizza or serve with crackers on a snack tray.

4pounds ground elk or venison

4teaspoons ground anise

4teaspoons mustard seed

4teaspoons garlic powder

2teaspoons hickory-smoked salt

2teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

2teaspoons salt

Mix ground meat with remaining seasonings. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours, mixing meat every 8 hours.

Divide meat into 4 parts. Roll each portion into a log and place on broiler pan to collect excess fat drippings. Bake in a 225-degree oven for 4 hours. Cool before serving. Keep refrigerated.

All recipes from “Creme de Colorado,” by the Junior League of Denver

Jan Roberts-Dominguez is a Corvallis, Ore., food writer, cookbook author and artist. Readers can contact her by e-mail at janrd@proaxis.com.