Take shelter at Mukilteo tea room

Published 9:00 pm Thursday, December 22, 2005

MUKILTEO – A block east of the ferry waiting area on the corner of Fifth and Lincoln avenues, there’s an oasis – Willows Edge Tea Room. I sought refuge there during the holiday shopping frenzy.

About a year ago, the tea room opened in a former residence. The downstairs is the tea room, which is really three rooms open to each other. The area that used to be the living room is furnished with overstuffed chairs near the fireplace. One fireplace was lit on my Wednesday-afternoon visit. The white and lemon-chiffon striped wallpaper and white tulle window coverings add to the interior’s brightness. On a cold and overcast winter day, stepping inside the door lifted my spirits.

Those who arrived ahead of me were exchanging gifts or spending time together as their holiday gift to each other. Most ordered lunch, like me, but one table went all the way with their celebration and enjoyed afternoon tea. They nibbled on tiny sandwiches, pastries, cheese and fresh strawberries while sipping their tea ($25 for high, $12 for petite).

No one was in a hurry on the day I visited, and I suspect there’s never a sense of being rushed at Willows Edge. It took me a while to come down to the slower pace of the tearoom after the scramble of the mall.

To begin my unwind, I ordered a large pot ($5.95) of Lapsang Souchong (small $3.50). Lapsang Souchong is a Chinese tea that’s smoked. The smoky flavor dominates this complex tea. Consider ordering it when you visit for a taste you can’t get in a can at the grocery. Other tea choices include three classic black teas, six scented black teas, one oolong, plus green, herbal and fruit blends. Many of these selections are familiar favorites such as Earl Grey.

The tea’s served in pots that don’t match the cups at each place setting but the white placemats and napkins tie everything together. The sugar, salt and pepper sit in a gleaming silver serving tray. Each table is beautiful yet inviting. Add to this a teapot decorated with red roses and gilt edging and the distinct aroma of Lapsang Souchong tea, and the world is perfect for a few seconds.

For my lunch, I ordered half a sandwich of roasted chicken with cranberry sauce, fresh grapes and walnuts on rustic white bread ($4.95), and a cup of curried avocado soup ($3.50). Whole sandwiches are $6.50, and a bowl of soup, which comes with a scone, is $5.

I enjoyed the tea’s aroma while I waited for my lunch. I noticed the table next to me ordered the baked pasta with roasted chicken, fresh spinach and three cheeses ($7.95). By the way, the menu is very short. In addition to the soup, pasta dish and sandwich, there are two salads ($5.95) and dessert. The soup and salads are served with a scone.

My soup and sandwich were as delicious as they were elegant – a hint of curry, beautiful avocado color with a swirl of white cream as an accent, and rows of sliced grapes peeking out from under thin slices of juicy chicken. By the way, like the service, the serving portions are more European in size than American. When I finished, I discovered that I still had about half a pot of tea left, so there was nothing to do but order dessert. I settled on French chocolate cake, which is a dense slice of decadence.

By the time I finished the cake and tea, I was ready to face the afternoon.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs.

Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com