The Northwest’s own great lakes

Published 5:25 pm Friday, September 14, 2007

Mount Rainier, the ocean coast and white-water rivers typically come to mind when we think of the Northwest. But we’re also blessed with great lakes that offer prime recreation opportunities.

We have bragging rights to the deepest lake in the United States, Crater, seventh in the world, and the third-deepest in the United States, Chelan, ninth in the world.

Here is a look at several of the Northwest’s Great Lakes.

Washington

Chelan: The showpiece of Central Washington, the 55-mile, nearly 1,500-foot-deep lake runs from the North Cascades east into Central Washington.

The Chelan Glacier and the continental ice sheet pushed and pulled in this valley, creating a broad lower section and a narrow upper lake nearly surrounded by sky-piercing spires.

From Chelan, roads go only about halfway up the lake, making the tiny town of Stehekin at the west end accessible only by float plane, private boat, foot or a trip aboard Lady of the Lake II or Lady Express.

Stehekin is often used as the take-off point for hikers heading into the mountains. A battle rages over whether to repair or permanently shut down the 12-mile Stehekin Valley Road, washed out by flooding in 2003.

September and October are great months to explore this east-of-the-mountains lake because while the temperatures are cooler, the sun still shines.

Roosevelt. The 130-mile-long lake in the northeast corner of the state was created by the Grand Coulee Dam across the Columbia River in 1941, yielding the typical water-related recreational opportunities.

One of the largest human-made lakes in the United States is known for houseboat rentals. All 650 miles of shoreline in this national recreation area are open to the public.

Because there are no large towns nearby, stargazing from the top of a houseboat or along the shoreline is a treat.

Ross Lake: This spectacular reservoir in the North Cascades has ramps for easy access for boaters. Power or paddle your way to lakeside campsites complete with vault toilets, accessible only from the water.

Skagit Tours by Seattle City Light run through September and showcase three hydroelectric projects; Diablo Lake Adventure includes a scenic bus trip up the gorge and a boat trip to Ross Powerhouse, including a run through the narrow canyons.

Lake Crescent: The Olympic Peninsula lake-mountain combo is a winner, with dozens of miles of trails spreading away from the lake into the mountains.

While there are beaches and boats, it’s the Spruce Railroad Trail along the north side of the lake that draws many visitors. It follows a World War I rail bed and has great lake views from Harrington Point and Devils Point, the latter with a view of Mount Storm King.

The most scenic part of this easy hike begins in about a mile, including an arched bridge across the Devil’s Bathtub, about 1.5 miles from the trailhead.

The 9-mile-long lake is the third-largest natural lake in Washington.

Oregon

Crater Lake: The country’s deepest lake sits in the collapsed caldera of the ancient Mount Mazama volcano. The 6-mile-wide basin holds some of the purest water in North America; its average clarity depth is about 95 feet.

In 1886, a U.S. Geological Survey crew conducted soundings with pipe and piano wire, recording the deepest point at 1,996 feet. That’s only 64 feet off a state-of-the-art multibeam sidescan sonar that recorded the current official depth of 1,932 feet in 1959.

Last year the Crater Lake Science and Learning Center opened in Crater Lake National Park to offer education and research opportunities.

Learn about geology, legends and research during bus tours that circle the lake on the 33-mile Rim Drive. There are short strolls (Sun Notch Viewpoint) and strenuous hikes (Garfield Peak) leading to panoramic views of the lake.

The only legal access to the lake is on the Cleetwood Cove Trail, a 1-mile, 700-foot descent.

It’s the same trail that must be hiked to take a boat tour of the lake. Think about the return before you start.

Upper Klamath Lake: The largest freshwater body, about 30 miles by eight miles, is known for fishing and paddling opportunities as well as blue-green algae blooms of up to 60 feet in its relatively shallow waters.

Although the blooms are an annual nuisances, the algae is harvested by local companies as a food supplement.

Take a tour on the paddlewheeler Klamath Belle or head to the north edge of the southern Oregon lake to explore Upper Klamath National Wildlife Refuge, which includes a marked 9.5-mile canoe trail.

Idaho

Coeur d’Alene Lake: According to American Indian legends, there were monsters in the 30-mile-long glacially formed lake.

The lake, a mere 183 feet deep, is home to Chinook salmon that weigh up to 42 pounds.

Several drowned Model-T’s share the lake with fish. Folks in the early 1900s would drive across the lake on the ice during the winter to save time and gas. Occasionally the ice wasn’t thick enough.

Dozens of trails near the lake include the in-town hike around Tubbs Hill, with views of the lake from Caribou Ridge.

The 24-mile North Idaho Centennial Trail runs from Higgens Point on the lake to the Idaho-Washington state line.

Watch for migrating bald eagles in the late fall and early winter from Higgens Point, or see eagles feeding on kokanee in Wolf Lodge Bay.

The downside to the lake is that heavy metal contaminates exist because of a history of mining and ore-processing upriver, leaving some experts to suggest a shower after swimming.

Pend Orielle: The state’s largest at 43 miles long, six miles wide, and deepest at 1,158 feet, fifth deepest in the United States, is blessed with many access points, activities and wildlife.

About 60 mountain goats live on Bernard Peak near Echo Bay on the south end of the lake. Boaters can get the best views but there are viewing scopes at Farragut State Park’s Sunrise day area.

A 1.5-mile Forest Service trail takes hikers to Maiden Rock, the huge granite formation on the west side of the lake, previously accessible only by boat.

Bring your boat, rent one or board an excursion boat to roam the lake.

Travel writer Sharon Wootton is co-author of “You Know You’re in Washington When …”