Scuttlebutt Brewing Co., famous for its locally brewed beers and beloved for its little Everett brew pub, has moved a few blocks north.
This is a good thing. Scuttlebutt has made a major upgrade in terms of ambience.
I visited the old location on Marine View Drive a few times in the past five years. I would have gone more, but the atmosphere was lacking.
Despite the proprietor’s admirable attempts at warming up the old space, it was tables only, no booths, and it never felt much like a restaurant.
Scuttlebutt’s new brew pub anchors the southwest corner of the Waterfront Center, home of the Port of Everett’s new headquarters just south of the 10th Street boat launch.
And it is most definitely a restaurant, a big, beautiful, busy one.
You won’t find water views here. Across the street is a huge vacant lot, a reminder of a condominium development that failed to materialize. But the atmosphere is bright and inviting and you feel close to the water with sail boat masts visible in most directions.
Scuttlebutt’s new space, like the building, features industrial decor, including polished concrete floors, exposed steel beams and numerous booths next to huge windows that let in an abundance of natural light.
It is a loud, lofty space.
Our server told us there are plans to install noise-muffling materials on the high, black-painted ceilings.
In the bar, a long, 4-inch-thick slab of polished hemlock adds a lovely splash of natural beauty and warmth.
What about the food?
Apart from a variety of new dinner selections featuring fish, steak and chicken, it’s pretty much the same classic Scuttlebutt assortment of burgers, sandwiches, soups, salads and fried appetizers.
I had the always-popular Scuttlebutt fish and chips ($8.99 for two pieces, $9.99 for three), Alaskan cod dipped in Scuttlebutt beer batter and panko bread crumbs. You can upgrade to halibut for an extra $1.
It was quite delicious with breading that was more brown than golden brown, but so good that it was hard not to finish the whole plate. I relished the large portion of fries, which were lightly battered for a bit of extra texture and crunch. It all came with bottle of malt vinegar.
I also ordered a cup of clam chowder ($2.99), another specialty. It was a winner, full of surprisingly large pieces of tender clam. Though creamy, the broth was not overly thick or heavy, and the vegetables were tender and flavorful.
My dining companion ordered the French dip ($8.99), another highlighted specialty on the vast menu.
It came on a gorgeous bun that was crusty on the outside and soft and airy on the inside.
He liked the meat — “a pile of tasty, thinly sliced roast beef” — as well as au jus and, most of all, a house-made horseradish sauce. It had just enough kick to provide full flavor but not so much as to overpower the sandwich or horseradish-shy diners.
I’d like to go back to Scuttlebutt soon to try out the rest of the extensive lunch menu, which includes just about any fried dish you can imagine, including a seafood platter ($11.99) and coconut prawns ($9.99), but also gyros, bratwurst and wings.
Our service was speedy and efficient, if a bit curt at times, perhaps because of the lunch rush.
I didn’t see anyone complaining as they piled into the large corner booths. When we arrived about noon on a Tuesday for lunch, we claimed one of the last spots in the house.
Most of the diners were feasting on fish and chips.
All of them seemed pretty happy, me included.
Sarah Jackson: 425-339-3037, sjackson@heraldnet.com.
Scuttlebutt Brewing Co.
1205 Craftsman Way, Everett; 425-257-9316; www.scuttlebuttbrewing.com.
Speciality: Lunch fare.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.
Alcohol: Full bar.
Vegetarian options: Veggie burgers, appetizers and salads.
Getting there: Go north on Marine View Drive two blocks past the old location. Take a left on 13th Avenue, toward the water. Look for this place on your right as 13th Avenue curves to the right.
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