Enroll now in Martha’s college of cooking knowledge

Published 4:39 pm Wednesday, November 5, 2008

I have been learning to cook for many, many years.

Although I’ve never attended a formal cooking school, my career allows me access to outstanding chefs, cooking teachers and restaurateurs.

On my TV show, with its parade of great chefs and cooks, I’ve learned to prepare a perfect fish, roast an herb-infused chicken and even make ice cream in two minutes.

All the while, I’ve thought about sharing the techniques, hints and tips I’ve learned in a “cooking school” primer or manual of my own.

“Martha Stewart’s Cooking School,” excerpted here, is the result of that “schooling.”

I hope that you will like the book and use it well.

HOW TO BRAISE MEAT, FISH AND POULTRY

Braising is a busy cook’s faithful friend. This cooking method doesn’t require much hands-on time; nor does it rely on special equipment or skills.

Yet the technique produces hearty, consistently delicious dishes that belie its ease.

Most braises are cooked for a long period of time at a low temperature. The best cuts for braising come from harder-worked muscle groups of the animal — the leg, shoulder, breast and neck areas — which are more flavorful and often inexpensive.

As the juices from the meat mingle with the aromatic vegetables, seasonings and cooking liquid, a wonderfully rich sauce develops, coaxing a depth of flavor from tough cuts that no other cooking method can equal.

EQUIPMENT

All you need for most braises is a heavy pot with a tight-fitting lid to keep the cooking liquid from evaporating.

The pot should be just big enough to snugly hold the meat and liquid. A vessel with too much surface area will allow the liquid to condense on the sides and won’t leave enough simmering around the meat and vegetables.

Make sure the pot is oven safe, so that you can use it for oven braising if necessary.

BRAISING LIQUIDS

Nearly any liquid can be used — the most common are stock, broth, wine, beer and water.

If using stock, remember that homemade is always preferable to canned; the store-bought variety can cause your reduced braising liquid to taste excessively salty and won’t have the thickening power of gelatin-rich homemade stock.

The key to attaining fork-tender meat is to keep the liquid in your pot at a simmer. Keep the cooking liquid as high as one-third to one-half of the way up the side of the meat, fish or poultry.

As the cooking liquid and meat juices simmer, they naturally reduce, which will thicken the sauce and intensify the flavor. If your liquid reduces too much while cooking, add a little more liquid to the pot.

HOW IT WORKS

As the meat cooks, the internal temperature rises and the juices eventually seep through the seared outer layer, mixing with the cooking liquid.

At this point, if you open the pot, you’ll probably find that the meat looks compact and shriveled, and is noticeably smaller than when you first put it in. But as it continues to braise, the cooking liquid will seep back into the meat, infusing it with moisture.

You’ll know the meat is done when it is silky, can be shredded easily, or is falling off the bone if there is one.

HOW TO BRAISE VEGETABLES

When you want tender vegetables with mellow, multi-layered flavors, turn to braising. With this method, vegetables are simmered in a flavorful liquid that is served as a sauce — one of the ways they are distinguished from boiled preparations.

Often these recipes start by browning the vegetables in oil, butter or other fat to add flavor and color.

Many call for mirepoix — the standard combination of onion, celery and carrot essential to many French dishes — and other aromatic ingredients to add flavor.

After the vegetables have browned, add a liquid such as stock or broth and cook the vegetables until just tender. The liquid can serve as a powerful flavor enhancer and will also end up with many of the vitamins and nutrients from the vegetables.

Homemade stock is preferable to canned because it has sufficient gelatin to thicken the sauce to a syrupy consistency.

More recipes and how-to videos for techniques included in the book are available at marthastewart.com/cookingschool.

This is an example of a short braise, where the cooking liquid is not reduced to make a sauce.

BRAISED BROCCOLI RABE

1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

3medium garlic cloves, crushed and peeled

1bunch (11/4 pounds) broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut crosswise into 3-inch pieces

2teaspoons julienned lemon zest, plus fresh lemon juice for serving

Coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1cup homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock

Heat oil and garlic in a large straight-sided skillet over medium heat, stirring frequently, until garlic is sizzling and aromatic, but not browned, about 2 minutes.

Add broccoli rabe, zest and 3/4 teaspoon salt, then use tongs to toss and coat in oil. Add stock and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until broccoli rabe is tender, 7 minutes to 10 minutes.

Transfer contents of pan (including liquid) to a serving bowl. Grind pepper over top and drizzle with olive oil and lemon juice. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

Reprinted from “Martha Stewart’s Cooking School,” by Martha Stewart with Sarah Carey