The pizza at White Buffalo Saloon is packed with toppings, especially on the combination which had pepperoni, Canadian bacon, sausage, onions, olives and mushrooms. (Ben Watanabe / The Herald)

Everett’s White Buffalo Saloon pizza piles it on

What’s behind that white buffalo statue chained to a barrel on a busy street in the bustling metropolis of Everett?

The iconic figure stands guard like a sentry outside White Buffalo Saloon on Evergreen Way. Above the noble beast are the boastful words “Great Pizza” followed by the typical declarations: “Sports Bar. Wi-Fi. Beer &Liquor. Pool. Pull Tabs.”

Those rang true. Inside, sports were aired on all of the TVs, the Wi-Fi worked, there was abundant booze, billiards and pull tabs aplenty.

Is it true the pizza is great?

(Editor’s note: Herald reporter Andrea Brown and social media producer Ben Watanabe went to White Buffalo Saloon and filed this report. The pizzas were so big that Herald Business Journal editor Jim Davis pitched in by reviewing the leftovers.)

Ben Watanabe:

The Buff, for short, is an ideal place for lots of things people should seek in a bar: beers on tap and in bottles, games, gambling and pizza.

Saying it has pizza is a disservice to what the White Buffalo menu declares to be the best pizza in town. Any time you’re talking about superlatives, it’s a matter of taste and preference.

Well, my preference is for hefty toppings and gooey cheese, and the White Buffalo’s pizza delivers on that with aplomb. The Spicy Hawaiian ($20 for large; $16 for medium) had some solid kick to it. The diced chicken and jalapenos were a nice jolt to the standard sweet and savory Hawaiian pizza.

White Buffalo is one of the hidden gems in town for watching football games. There are TVs just about everywhere, and even during Seahawks games you’re likely to find a seat or a table.

The people behind the bar have always been friendly, helpful and attentive — everything you could want. During our stop, when the pool table wouldn’t cough up the cue ball after my first scratch (of many), a worker happily unlocked the table so we could reset it ourselves, gratis. That feels like an anachronism, but I took it as, “Hey, sorry for the inconvenience. Help yourself.” It was like the “take a penny, leave a penny” tray getting used to cover your change so you get back a full buck. Unnecessary generosity, but deeply appreciated.

Don’t call The Buff a dive. It’s not. It’s a classic, respectable neighborhood bar. Or, at least it is until you try to climb on top of the buffalo statue outside and feed it a slice of pizza.

Andrea Brown:

Rumor has it that Ben has tried to climb on top of the buffalo statue and feed it pizza.

I’d driven by that white buffalo statue numerous times. On the muddled strip of business-after-business on Evergreen Way where it’s easy to lose your bearings, it’s a handy landmark, like that giant vacuum cleaner with stuffed gorilla.

I’m not a fun bar rat like Ben, so I’d never gone inside The Buff until he suggested it as a dining review.

I was game. I’ve never met a pizza I didn’t like.

The pizzas are huge, with thick toppings and crust. A sharp-shooter at the next pool table who brought his own cue sticks told me he comes from Camano Island for the pizza.

I liked the pizza, but it was too weighted by toppings for my taste. Also, I prefer thin crust pies. I like my pizza crusty, just like I like my men.

There were a few crusty males in the bar. Score!

But I didn’t go there to pick up men. I already had a crusty man at home. One’s enough.

My crusty man at home loved the pizza. So did my son.

This is dude pizza. Dude pizza at its finest.

Jim Davis:

Pizza is pizza is pizza. It’s cheese, bread and some topping with a little sauce. So how can one pizza be better than another pizza? What’s the difference between Domino’s drab and that joint you keep calling?

Well, for one thing, the crust. That’s an advantage the White Buffalo Saloon offers. It’s a big, thick crust with flour that sticks to your hands and mouth. While no one would call this pizza thin, it also wasn’t doughy. It tastes like baked bread.

Another advantage: The toppings. Yeah, sure anyone can put pepperoni, olives and sausage on a pizza. White Buffalo Saloon put it on. And then put it on again. And then again. Toppings were piled high, but it wasn’t sloppy.

It seems like the folks at the White Buffalo Saloon know how to make a pizza by stretching the limits, but not stretching the limits too far.

Andrea Brown at 425-339-3443; Twitter: @reporterbrown.

White Buffalo Saloon

5614 Evergreen Way, Everett; 425-348-5446.

Hours are 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 10 a.m. to midnight Sunday.

Alcohol: Beer, wine and spirits.

Vegetarian options: Nachos and veggie pizza.

Prices: The Combination pizza is $16 for medium; $20 for large. A build-your-own with choice of two toppings is $13 for medium; $16 for large. Sandwiches include The Reuben, $7; French Dip, $8; and BLT, $7.

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