Spaghetti House a favorite for 50 years

Published 3:59 pm Thursday, April 3, 2008

SEATTLE — When Herald reader told me his family has an annual tradition of driving from Machias to an Italian restaurant in the Lake City neighborhood, I didn’t quite believe it. But my friend immediately recognized the restaurant and agreed that it was worth the trip.

My friend and I visited the Italian Spaghetti House on a recent Saturday for dinner, and while waiting for our cups of minestrone, he said this restaurant was one of his mother’s favorites and he remembered eating here 40 years ago. When our server brought the soup, she wasn’t at all surprised and said the recipes have stayed the same for 50 years.

Yet the interior of the Italian Spaghetti House doesn’t look half a century old. The deeply textured plaster walls and wainscoting were painted a fresh-looking cream. The tables are set with wine-colored tablecloths and crisp white napkins. It’s all very simple and traditional, making it timeless.

The menu choices are also enduring favorites such as pizza ($11.50 to $16.75 for a medium), pasta ($9.50 to $13) and Sicilian-style steak ($17). The Herald reader wrote, “The pizza is delicious, they probably have the tastiest pepperoni around; the ravioli with meatballs and garlic bread are also prime-time treats.”

Despite these recommendations, my friend and I stayed with our standardized test dishes: spaghetti and meatballs for me, and chicken Parmesan for him. We selected the complete dinners that come with soup, salad and ice cream, which are a bargain at less than $20 each.

After one spoonful of minestrone, one bite of salad and one forkful of our main dish, we agreed that this restaurant does everything just a little better. For example, the minestrone soup has the classic vegetables — potatoes, celery, carrots and beans — plus ditalini pasta. Our salads included slices of salami and dried mozzarella, and the house Italian dressing caused numerous mmms and nods.

My meatballs were just as perfect as the pasta, and the marinara sauce was a tasty blend of tomatoes and spices. To our surprise, my friend’s three chicken breasts were grilled instead of breaded and deep-fried. The grilling kept the chicken moist and tender. Even the spumoni ice cream was half a shake better than expected because it was filled with plump cherries.

The Herald reader who sent the e-mail said, “I can’t say enough good about this restaurant.” My friend and I agreed and would like this restaurant to remain unchanged for about another 50 years.

Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs. E-mail her features@heraldnet.com.

Italian Spaghetti House

9824 Lake City Way

Seattle

206-523-2667

Specialty: Southern Italian

Hours: 4:30 to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 4:30 to 10:30 Friday and Saturday

Price range: Moderate ($9.50 to $19)

Liquor: Beer and wine

Vegetarian: Numerous selections

Reservations: Recommended for large parties

Disabled Accessibility: Easy Access

Credit Cards: Master Card, Visa