Escape the Venice crowds with these day trips to nearby towns

Published 1:30 am Sunday, October 9, 2016

I love Venice, but when the crowds become unbearable, I make it a point to get out of the center and discover what the surrounding area has to offer.

One easy escape is to the islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello, which hide out in Venice’s lagoon. Water taxis and ferry boats zip from central Venice to the islands, so you can easily see all three places in one day.

The quickest-to-reach island is Murano, where, for centuries, artisans have been producing that famous Venetian glass. A 13th-century law restricted glass production (and its dangerous furnaces) to Murano to prevent fires on the main island, and also to protect the secrets of Venetian glassmaking. Today, you can visit elaborate showrooms and witness the traditional mastery of this craft in adjoining workshops.

The island of Burano, with its colorful facades, is famous for lace. Shops proudly display these painstakingly produced works — made with only needles and thread by artisans meticulously following time-honored patterns.

Burano’s vibrantly painted homes look like Venice before the plaster peeled off. When shops close and the crowds return to Venice, it’s worthwhile to stay and wander Burano’s back lanes for a peaceful slice of the Venetian lagoon most visitors miss.

From Burano, you can head back to the mainland or stop at Torcello, the birthplace of Venice. This marshy island is home to about 20 residents and the oldest church in Venice.

Venice is the most famous city in a region known as the Veneto. In its heyday the island of Venice ruled a huge empire, and that included a good part of the Italian mainland. With much of the charm and far fewer crowds, you could call this region of Italy “sotto-estimato” — underestimated. And two of the best Veneto destinations are Padua and Verona.

Padua is home to a prestigious university, a pilgrimage sight, and remarkable frescoes. The city was ruled by Venice from 1405 until Napoleon came around 1800. Chafing under Venetian rule seemed only to sharpen Padua’s independent spirit. That spirit survives at its university, which attracted such intellectuals as Galileo, Copernicus, and Dante.

Pilgrims have flocked to the Basilica of St. Anthony for nearly 800 years. A shrine to pme pf Christianity’s most popular saints, the basilica is filled with magnificent art and relics of the saint, considered miraculously preserved: his vocal chords, tongue and jawbone. The Scrovegni Chapel is the art treasure of Padua. Wallpapered with Giotto’s cycle of frescoes, the glorious chapel — painted in the early 1300s — depicts the lives of Jesus and Mary. The chapel is open only to a limited number of visitors a day, and reservations are required.

Padua also presents the opportunity to explore one of Italy’s finest produce markets.

Locals can tell the month by seasonal selections — artichokes and white asparagus? It’s April.

At the base of the Alps and nestled in a bend of the Adige River is another leading city in the Veneto: Verona. It is famous among tourists because of Romeo and Juliet. (You can visit Juliet’s famous balcony, but it’s fictitious.)

Verona is worth a visit for its history as a Roman city — an ideal last stop for ancient Romans before heading over the Alps. Here you’ll find an amazing arena boasting great acoustics, impressive stonework, and fine city views.

Venice is undeniably the star of this region. But don’t overlook the gems nearby with their distinctive culture, sumptuous art, and people who embrace life with classic Italian flair.

©2016 Rick Steves. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency.