Bellingham’s Fairhaven district is the perfect day trip
Published 5:41 pm Friday, March 27, 2009
Sometimes you just need to get out of the house, and a routine trip to the grocery store, mall or park just isn’t going to cut it.
You need to staycate.
Fortunately, there is Fairhaven, a quaint historic district in the southernmost reaches of Bellingham.
It is indeed fair and a haven, the perfect day trip, rain or shine, for families stuck in a weekend rut, couples who need a romantic getaway or anyone with a mild case of cabin fever.
Though Fairhaven’s artsy vibe and old brick buildings have always been a draw for Western Washington University students, this picturesque town has blossomed in the past decade to include a charming array of boutiques, shops, galleries and eateries.
Though it’s only an hour’s drive from downtown Everett by I-5, Fairhaven feels more like an escape if you take the scenic route.
Chuckanut Drive, also known as Highway 11, runs about 20 miles from Burlington to Fairhaven. It wends through bucolic Skagit Valley farm country and eventually takes you onto a wooded cliff overlooking the San Juan Islands and Samish Bay.
Though you can visit Larrabee State Park along the route or stop for lunch at the surprisingly chichi restaurant, The Oyster Bar, it’s fun enough to enjoy the road’s knuckle-whitening twists and turns under a thick canopy of evergreens.
Soon enough, you’re delivered to Fairhaven, a manageable little burg free of chains and bustling with independent spirit.
Though you can walk the entire district in an afternoon, Fairhaven shouldn’t be conquered like some kind of tourist trap.
It must be wandered.
Start at the hub of all things, Fairhaven at the Village Green, a grassy courtyard in front of a large brick building that’s home to Village Books and The Legendary Colophon Cafe &Deli and other shops.
Portland may have world-famous Powell’s Books, but Fairhaven’s indie bookstore is just as fun, with a great kids area, plus Book Fare, an upstairs cafe with views and access to the fiction section.
That’s in addition to the in-house Colophon (pronounced KOL-uh-fawn), a down-to-earth all-day soup-and-sandwich haunt famous for its homemade peanut butter pie.
It’s also a great place to grab a beer or a glass of wine in the middle of the day just to show yourself you’re really on staycation.
If nothing there strikes your food fancy, go exploring and choose from Fairhaven’s many other options. Put your name on the list at the Harris Avenue Cafe and then people watch with an espresso in hand from the adjoining Tony’s Coffee while you wait.
With your belly full, it’s time stretch your legs.
Report back to the Village Green and you’ll see people making their way north on the South Bay Trail, an unpaved walk to the Taylor Avenue Dock, an expansive boardwalk that stretches into Bellingham Bay in front of the majestic and inviting Chrysalis Inn &Spa.
Eventually the boardwalk, surrounded on all sides by water, turns into a paved walkway at Boulevard Park, where you’ll find another local java stop, The Woods Coffee, plus a playground, restrooms, a two-story viewing tower and interpretive displays about wildlife.
If you make it this far, you’ll have a half-mile walk back into the center of Fairhaven for more exploring.
Even if you don’t have a kid in your life, don’t miss Fairhaven Toy Garden, where you’ll find cool toys made with natural materials and European flair.
Dream on and experience the softness of luxury bedding at Two Turtle Doves, where 1,000-thread count Egyptian cotton sheets and duvets are the norm.
Though you don’t have to buy a thing in Fairhaven to have fun — and you can come back any time, after all — you might find a drinkable souvenir at Purple Smile Wines, offering tastings daily and wines from Washington and around the world.
All done?
Hop in your car. You won’t even need to buy gas. Take Old Fairhaven Parkway out of town to pick up I-5 for a 60-minute trip home.
Sarah Jackson: 425-339-3037, sjackson@heraldnet.com.
If you go
Village Books 1200 11th St. 360-671-2626 www.villagebooks.com
The Colophon Cafe &Deli 1208 11th St. 360-647-0092 www.colophoncafe.com
Chrysalis Inn &Spa 804 10th St. 888-808-0005 www.thechrysalisinn.com
Fairhaven Toy Garden 1147 11th St. 360-714-8552 www.fairhaventoygarden.com
Purple Smile Wines 1143 11th St. 360-756-0422 www.purplesmilewines.com
Two Turtle Doves 909 Harris Ave. 360-671-7698 www.thetwoturtledoves.com
Woods Coffee 470 Bayview Road 360-738-4771 www.thewoodscoffee.com
Fairhaven.com: Learn about events in Fairhaven, including the Dirty Dan Days Seafood Festival April 25 and 26.
