Good wines pop up in surprising location

Published 9:00 pm Saturday, October 1, 2005

In Seattle’s south side, along the Duwamish Waterway in a little section called South Park, is a budding new wine region.

Actually, you can’t really consider this neck of the industrial woods of Seattle a wine region. Although there is certainly enough deviation from the normal grape growing conditions with the area’s diverse topography, soil contamination, association with a popular animated feature and recessed elevation to be entertained as a new wave American Viticultural Area. I can just imagine the impact a grapefruit-sized grape would have on the industry.

Of course I jest, but the fact is that there is a serious wine presence in this long-since-paved paradise where parking lots and warehouses have replaced cedar and Douglas fir.

There are two dynamic destination wineries that make up this new pseudo wine region on the southern coattails of Seattle, and like most Western Washington wineries, they source their fruit from the fertile vineyards on the east side of our state.

Nota Bene Cellars is the culmination of a love for wine, passion for life and the combination of the two principals, Tim Narby (the “N” part) and his bride, Carol Bryant (the “B” part). You merge initials with Carol’s propensity for Latin and the results are “Nota Bene” (note it well) – and of course, attention must be paid to these notable wines.

Tim’s is another commercial winery success story originating from the launching pad of the Boeing Wine and Beermaking Club. After years of practice with multiple fermentations a year in his basement, Tim began receiving top scores at the club’s annual wine fest. Armed with his newfound confidence plus the talent and boundless support of his wife, a prosecuting attorney, Tim took the leap of faith to become another of this state’s rising winemaking stars.

After sampling many of Tim’s wines over the past few vintages from many venerable vineyard sources such as Conner Lee, Alder Creek, Klipsun, Chamoux, Ciel du Cheval and Chandler Reach, it’s pretty easy to reach a conclusion on Tim and Carol’s contribution to Washington wine. Their wines are stunning examples of what can be accomplished with great fruit and a deft touch.

A real solid one-wood drive from the front door of Nota Bene is the other rock star winery that makes up the potential Duwamish AVA. OS Winery (formerly known as Owen-Sullivan Winery) is a classic example of the cosmic success of melding X with Y. The X factor is partner and head winemaker Bill Owen, who could possibly be the love child of Albert Einstein and Helen Turley, one of California’s most respected winemakers. Brilliant, eccentric, amazingly talented and oozing with passion, Bill has orchestrated a radical rise in both the quality and popularity of his handcrafted wines since the winery’s inception in 1997. The Y factor is the retired gentleman banker Rob Sullivan, who provided an entrepreneurial spirit, an even keel, a head for business and the capital necessary to launch their dream.

A quote from a rather infamous and often misinterpreted figure in the world of wine is proudly displayed on the OS Winery Web site, and I think it goes a long way to sum up the Owen-Sullivan story. “From their jury-rigged winery in a nondescript business park near Seattle-Tacoma Airport, Bill Owen and Rob Sullivan are making some of Washington state’s plushest and headiest reds… They make small lots that just keep getting better with each vintage…” wrote Harvey Steiman of Wine Spectator.

Well, Harvey, I’ve got to say that you were on point with that evaluation. The wines that I tried during a recent visit, both from the barrel and bottle, were a continued revelation of the consistent quality and correctness of these stunning wines. Here’s a heads-up on a unique wine that I sampled from the barrel that had me uttering only one evaluation, “Oh my!” It’s a 100 percent petite verdot, that when tempered with a touch of Merlot from the resident artisan/mad scientist winemaker, “Wild Bill,” will undoubtedly rise in Steiman’s dubious rating scale to heights usually reserved for cult California wines.

A trip to visit a couple of outstanding wineries on the southern fringe of the big concrete jungle would be a good idea. (Here a Latin scholar would scribble in the margin, “Nota Bene.”)

Would tracking down a bottle or two of these remarkable wines at your local specialty retail wine shop be worthwhile? (To which I say, “O yes.”)

Jeff Wicklund can be reached at 425-737-2600, or wick@colbyhospitality.com.