Corn cakes

Published 9:00 pm Tuesday, March 21, 2006

But in cooking, elemental never means unchanging. Corn griddle cakes, for example, simple folk food in dozens of cultures, come in many guises. Venezuelan or Columbia arepas. Oaxacan clayudas. Indonesian bregedel jagung. All-American cornmeal pancakes.

They may be basic, but they have amazing flavor and texture, whatever the country of origin.

Made with finely ground, precooked white corn flour, arepas are a mainstay in Colombia, where they are thin, and in Venezuela, where they’re thick and often stuffed with meat or vegetables.

Like tortillas, they’re a breadlike staple, once made of corn pounded in a mortar and pestle and cooked on an earthenware griddle. In South America, arepas often are topped with or wrapped around slices of melting cheese, or stuffed with grated mild white cheese.

The best way to eat arepas is straight off the griddle. They are finger foods, like toast, meant to be spread with butter or jam, or used as a scoop to eat other food.

They may be patted out like tortillas, cooked on a griddle like pancakes and bring to mind your favorite cheese-grits recipe, but arepas have their own unique flavor and texture.

Fresh corn kernels are the basis for bregedel jagung, savory Indonesian corn cakes with shrimp and green onions. Corn was introduced to Indonesia by the Spanish in the 17th century, notably to an island off Java called Madura.

Finely chopped shrimp, onions, celery, garlic and cilantro are mixed with eggs, corn and a little cream. The sweetness of the corn and cream is balanced by the distinctive brininess of the shrimp and the crunch of the herbs and vegetables.

These corn cakes make terrific appetizers, two or three to a serving, or offered on a platter at a buffet. Although arepas and cornmeal pancakes are best straight off the griddle, they can be kept at room temperature, the way much food is eaten in Indonesia..

For the cakes that call for corn kernels, remember that Mexican corn is available in many markets year-round. Though it’s too tough in the winter to be great for eating on the cob, it works admirably in these dishes.

When making corn cakes, use a griddle, or a well-seasoned cast iron skillet, whatever you’d use to make pancakes.

The ghosts of a long line of griddle-cake makers are surely hovering around as you work, waiting for one more delectable bite.

2cups fresh corn kernels

3eggs, beaten

3tablespoons flour

2tablespoons whipping cream

1/2cup cooked shrimp, finely chopped

1/4cup finely diced celery

2green onions, including tops, finely chopped

2tablespoons cilantro leaves, chopped, plus leaves for garnish

2cloves garlic, minced

1teaspoon salt

1/4teaspoon white pepper

1tablespoon butter

1tablespoon oil

Combine the corn, eggs, flour and cream in a food processor and blend until the corn is finely chopped and appears creamy, scraping down the sides as needed. Remove to a bowl. Add the shrimp, celery, onions, cilantro, garlic, salt and pepper and mix well.

Heat the butter and oil in a large skillet. For each cake, add a heaping tablespoon of the corn mixture to the skillet. Keep the cakes separated, and press to flatten slightly. Cook over medium heat until golden brown on the bottom, then turn and cook until golden, about 3 minutes total.

Continue until all the cakes are cooked, placing them on a platter and keeping them warm. Serve as an appetizer or side dish, garnished with cilantro leaves, if desired.

Makes 24 cakes.

11/3cups yellow cornmeal

1cup pastry flour (or mix 1/3 cup all-purpose flour with 2/3 cup cake flour)

1tablespoon sugar

2teaspoons baking powder

1teaspoon baking soda

1teaspoon salt

1cup fresh or frozen corn kernels

4tablespoons melted butter, divided

2eggs, beaten

2cups buttermilk

2tablespoons malt syrup (or molasses; see note)

1tablespoon oil

Orange-blueberry syrup (recipe follows)

Combine the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt and stir to mix. Add the corn to dry ingredients and mix. Combine 3 tablespoons melted butter, the eggs, buttermilk and malt syrup. Stir into the corn mixture. Heat the griddle.

Combine the remaining tablespoon of butter with the oil and brush lightly over the griddle. Pour on about 1/4 cup batter for each pancake. Cook each pancake 1 to 2 minutes, until the bottom turns golden brown, then flip, cook the other side, about 3 minutes total.

Serve hot with orange-blueberry syrup on the side.

Makes 18 (41/2-inch) pancakes. Each pancake: 229 calories; 4 grams protein; 45 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 5 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 31 milligrams cholesterol; 293 milligrams sodium.

Note: Malt syrup is available at some markets and health food stores. You can substitute 4 teaspoons molasses for the malt syrup.

Peel of 2 to 3 oranges

2cups sugar

1cup orange juice

2cups blueberries

Peel the oranges with a vegetable peeler, eliminating any white pith. Combine the peel and sugar in a food processor and process 2 to 3 minutes.

Pour the orange juice into a non-aluminum saucepan. Add the peel-sugar mixture and bring just to a boil, skimming off any foam. Simmer 3 to 4 minutes to reduce slightly. Mix in blueberries and cook 1 minute. Serve warm.

3cups arepa masa (see note)

1/4cup finely crumbled queso fresco

1teaspoon salt

3cups water

2cups milk

1/4cup butter

Combine the arepa masa, cheese and salt in a bowl. Combine the water, milk and butter in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and cool until just warm enough to touch.

Add a little of the warm milk mixture to the masa mixture and knead to mix. Add a little more liquid and knead again, continuing until the liquid is incorporated and combined to make a dough.

To make the arepas, take a scant 1/4 cup dough, form into a ball and pat between the palms of your hands to about the same thickness as a tortilla. (Or cut a resealable plastic bag in half to make 2 plastic sheets. Place a ball of dough on one sheet, cover with the other sheet and press flat with a rolling pin.) . The arepas should be about 3 inches in diameter. Place them on a baking sheet and cover with a damp cloth. To cook, heat an ungreased seasoned griddle or nonstick skillet and cook the arepas 2 to 3 minutes on each side until lightly golden brown. Serve immediately, with butter if desired.

Makes about 40 (3-inch) arepas. Each arepa contains 51 calories; 1 gram protein; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram fiber; 2 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 5 . milligrams cholesterol; 66 milligrams sodium.

Note: Arepa masa is available at Hispanic markets and may be labeled masa arepa, areparina or harina de pan.