Kiwis have a knack for pinot noir

Published 9:00 pm Saturday, September 16, 2006

Like all feats of magic, transforming bunches of pinot noir grapes into great red wine isn’t easy. The French figured out how to do it a few centuries ago with red Burgundy, but outside of France, winemakers haven’t had much luck. Due to its penchant for thwarting the best-laid plans of even the best winemakers, pinot noir has been dubbed the “heartbreak grape,” a nickname it richly deserves.

In New Zealand, however, things are looking up. Although the wine industry there is barely 20 years old, New Zealand’s fledgling pinot noirs are coming on strong. Vibrant, silky and bursting with cheery red fruit, they are exactly what pinot noir should be but rarely is, outside the Cote d’Or.

Prices are reasonable. Unlike good red Burgundy, which starts at around $40, and better California pinot noirs, which have climbed close to $30, many of New Zealand’s more delectable pinot noirs cost $20 or less.

The following New Zealand pinot noirs are recommended based on quality and value. Prices are approximate. Importers or distributors are listed so your local wine store can order.

Outstanding

Villa Maria 2005 Pinot Noir “Private Bin” ($19-$20): A joy to drink, this youthful pinot noir bursts with jammy, succulent fruit reminiscent of a young Volnay. Although this will pair splendidly with classic Burgundian dishes such as boeuf bourguignonne or duck confit, all that this grapey indulgence needs now is a hunk of crusty French bread and a nice wedge of cheese.

Whitehaven 2004 Pinot Noir “Marlborough” ($25): A pretty bouquet of violets and red fruit is followed on the palate by well-defined notes of berries and spice layered over firm tannins. Complex and subtle.

Very Good

Seven Terraces (Foxes Island Wines) Pinot Noir 2005 “Marlborough” ($19): Startlingly pure and fruity, this entry-level offering from the Foxes Island winery is beginning to display a hint of Burgundy-style earthiness on the finish. Match with full-flavored poultry, such as free-range chicken, or serve lightly chilled with crudites or tapas.

Coopers Creek 2004 Pinot Noir “Marlborough” ($19): This energetic pinot noir offers fresh flavors of cherry and red berries, leading to a supple finish of fine tannins.

Nobilo 2004 Pinot Noir “Icon” ($18): Concentrated and well structured, this wine’s solid core of red fruit is delectable.

Drylands 2005 Pinot Noir “Marlborough” ($23): Although this wine displays a lot of toasty oak from barrel aging, the robust fruit just soaks it up. Enjoyable now, this chunky, full-bodied wine has at least three to five years of aging potential.

The Jibe 2004 Pinot Noir “Marlborough” ($15): This lighter-scaled offering has excellent pinot noir varietal character, and the fresh, fruity style is appealing. Serve slightly chilled.