Teriyaki place meets expectations
Published 9:00 pm Thursday, September 22, 2005
EVERETT – A recent packet of letters from Herald readers heaped the praise on @teriyaki.com, which opened four months ago next to Welch’s Foods.
One grandmother suggested we try her favorite, sweet and sour chicken, and noted that her grandsons like the teriyaki chicken best. All the letter writers found the prices reasonable, the atmosphere warm and friendly and the food delicious.
Those were pretty high standards. Could this newly opened restaurant live up to these recommendations?
I asked myself this question as I searched for a parking space on a side street before my recent Friday night visit. By the way, consider parking in the grocery store lot and walking next door. Don’t hesitate because the owner of the grocery, Calvin Yi, bought the grocery in November and opened the restaurant four months ago.
The restaurant used to be the grocery’s storage area. He converted it into a welcoming eatery, and the night I visited, he was behind the counter taking orders and passing them to the open kitchen.
The menu offers two basic entrees: teriyaki with rice and salad, ($4.95 to $6.95) or wok dishes with steamed rice or for 50 cents more, fried rice ($5.95 to $6.25). Visitors can also order teriyaki and wok combinations ($5.45 to $6.95), plus specials such as tempura ($5.95), katsu ($6.85), almond chicken ($6.95), or udon soup ($5.25).
There’s also sushi, $2.50 to $3 a roll or $20 for a small plate. These prices make eating out a true alternative to cooking. Better yet, there’s a membership card that makes customers’ order No. 10 free.
I racked up two take-out dinners on my card by ordering the sweet and sour chicken, which is one of the Chinese selections, ($5.95). I knew my dinner companion wanted teriyaki but wasn’t comfortable picking one arbitrarily. I asked for guidance and the owner instantly suggested the pork teriyaki ($5.95), indicating it’s his favorite.
While waiting, I checked out the sparkling restrooms and chatted with the owner, who had the time because I was the only customer at the moment. My wait was short and I left with two stacks of containers in tightly tied bags.
Our salads were made of torn iceberg lettuce and carrot strips. At first, we were disappointed that the salad didn’t come with dressing; then we discovered the tiny containers under all the lettuce. We laughed because we’d opened the containers upside down. The salad dressing was a delight because it has a hint of wasabi, giving it just the tiniest flavor kick.
Our main dishes came with two ice-cream scoops of rice, which proved to be too much for me but just right for my friend.
Onion and green bell pepper quarters added interest to my sweet and sour chicken, which is made with the traditional, bright-red sweet and sour sauce. It was acceptable, but my friend’s pork teriyaki got our “best of show” vote.
No wonder this dish is the owner’s favorite. It’s first marinated in soy sauce and spices, then grilled and sliced paper-thin. Upscale places don’t always do this dish this well. Sadly, my friend shared only a smidgen with me. Happily, my membership card indicates more good food on the horizon.
Herald restaurant reviewers accept no invitations to review, but readers’ suggestions are always welcome. Reviewers arrive unannounced, and The Herald pays their tabs. Contact Anna Poole at features@heraldnet.com.
@teriyaki.com
2232 Colby Ave., Everett
425-252-5652
Specialty: Asian cuisine
Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday-Saturday
Price range: inexpensive
Liquor: none
Smoking: none
Vegetarian choices: multiple choices
Disabled accessibility: easy access
Credit cards: MasterCard, Visa
