The first impression that Bantaba makes is with lively orange and green décor and a clean-swept hardwood floor.
A curtain obscures the kitchen, where the sound of clanging confirms that cooking is under way.
A TV blares local news, and diverse customers take turns waiting for to-go orders in Styrofoam boxes.
Bantaba African Restaurant, specializing in West African cuisine, has been open for more than a year at 19417 36th Ave. W., across from the Lynnwood Convention Center.
Bantaba has that rare appeal of a strip-mall restaurant: To walk inside, close the door and suddenly feel like you’re a long ways away.
Service was helpful and friendly, smiling but also sleepy, hitting speed bumps on the details. Water glasses weren’t refilled during one visit. Refills on another visit came around the same time as the bill.
The menu was well-designed, with large photos behind the counter to clear up any questions. On a second visit, multiple listed items were unavailable. A bit of a bummer. Dishes take time, so don’t expect a quick pace.
The filling in an empanada-style meat pie ($6.99) was spicy and flavorful, just beef and onions, according to the waitress.
The lamb in peanut sauce ($9.99) was reminiscent of Mexican mole, though more reliant on tomato. It was as rich and silky as promised, but needed something, maybe an acidic component.
The fragrant Benachin ($9.99), also known as Jollof rice, was better. The hearty bone-in tilapia had a crispy, crunchy coating.The accompanying eggplant and cabbage added textural contrast, though one friend found them mushy.
The lamb in multiple dishes was tender, but still had chew — pink and perfect.
The Afra lamb ($11.99), also bone-in, had a surprisingly simple pepper rub. I wasn’t sold on the salad dressing, which tasted too much like plain mustard. One dining companion didn’t mind it, drawing a comparison to sauce served with corned beef.
Still, the Afra lamb was a healthy option for lunch. So was grilled beef with a slaw that put black-eyed peas in the starring role. “Good grilled meat,” a friend remarked, eating the leftovers with his hands. “This is what I’d make if I was a better cook.” The slaw reminded me of Texas caviar, with pungent raw onion. A colleague also enjoyed her Yassa chicken ($9.99), a popular dish there, according to Yelp.
As for drinks (non-alcoholic), another colleague said, “The drinks we tried were one made of hibiscus, which was sweet and floral, and the other was orange-ginger juice, a combination that makes perfect sense.”
Hot powder was provided with entrees, as were veggies on the side, including lone jumbo carrots. All entrees ordered came with a generous heap of rice. My condolences to the carb-conscious.
Some things make less sense. Why were cases of water bottles and toilet paper stacked in clear view of customers? When and where are you supposed to pay? How come online menus don’t match what’s actually offered?
Bantaba makes for a little guesswork. Orders to-go, sometimes in large quantities, seem to move faster.
Overall, though, the restaurant offers heart and the chance to try something new. For less adventurous diners, it’s easy enough to stay in the comfort zone with meat pies and peanut sauce.
Bantaba African
19417 36th Ave W, Lynnwood, 425-778-0202, www.bantabarestaurant.com
Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays. Closed Mondays.
Alcohol: None
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