EDMONDS — For now, the only sign to attract customers is the dark, understated lettering printed on the establishment’s shaded glass door.
No matter. Word of mouth and the sight of potted red geraniums on sidewalk tables has turned the new Edmonds restaurant Salt &Iron into a local hot spot.
Opened in March by Edmonds native Andrew Leckie and chef Shubert Ho, the restaurant focuses on oysters (and other seafood) and steak (and the like) — thus the salt and iron of the name.
This isn’t a typical surf and turf place, however.
Leckie and Ho have created a delightful Northwest menu for their Main Street bar and restaurant, located not far from the ferry, marina, movie theater, arts center and the charming shops of downtown Edmonds.
It’s sure to be hopping during the Edmonds Arts Festival this weekend. Reservations are a must.
The restaurateurs also own Bar Dojo in the Five Corners neighborhood up the hill from downtown, where they’ve earned a favorable reputation for their pan-Asian menu.
Grateful that a reader turned us on to Salt &Iron, we enjoyed a late supper there on a recent evening.
We sat inside to get a sense of the place. It was warm and loud, so we were happy for a table at the back.
The noise level would be OK if it was just a bar. But it was pretty loud for the small dining room. The owners plan to solve that problem later this year when they open a larger dining room and banquet facility in the corner building just next door.
On that corner is where they will put the big sign, Leckie told people as he toured the tables that evening.
Inspired Interiors of Edmonds created the look of the restaurant, with its lovely bar and functional main dining area, complete with a window seat where you can catch the sunset. Classy black-and-white photos of Edmonds are the primary decoration.
After we ordered, a small cast-iron skillet filled with tasty and crispy house-made potato chips and olive aioli was delivered to the table. It was a nice complementary appetizer.
My husband and I ordered two small plates to start — the watermelon salad and the asparagus, $9 each, along with two glasses of wine, a vinho verde ($7) and a Washington rose ($10).
The refreshing watermelon salad was perfect on a warm day. A nice combination of savory and sweet, the melon was accompanied by arugula, shaved fennel, shallots, pistachios, goat cheese and a light raspberry vinaigrette.
A sunny-side-up egg topped the grilled asparagus, peppers, cilantro and a good mustard aioli, which was made even better by the egg yoke.
My husband and I always share, and we were smart to order the seared scallops ($25) and the flat iron steak ($21). They went well together.
The scallops were seared just right and kept warm on a heaping bowl of yummy risotto, asparagus, Parmesan, radish and greens.
The steak came with roasted red pepper butter and frites (yes, fries) topped with garlic and Parmesan. Tender, flavorfully marinated and grilled to order, it was a great steak.
We finished off with two desserts — $8 each. May as well go all the way, right? We had blood orange rhubarb tart and the chocolate Bavarian. We were delighted how well the orange and rhubarb paired and almost could not finish the rich Bavarian, with its delicious creamy chocolate, chai spice, pomegranate sauce and candied pecan dust and an accompanying pecan “baton.” Wow.
By the time we were on dessert, the dining room was quiet and cool, but I was so happy when our server Corinne was willing to make me an iced Americano.
Next time, I’m ordering the oysters on the half shell, smelt fries and chips, crab salad, the pork chop and the burger… Oh, wait. I guess we’ll have to return a few times.
Gale Fiege: 425-339-3427; gfiege@heraldnet.com. Twitter: @galefiege.
Salt &Iron
321 Main St., Edmonds, 425-361–1112, www.saltniron.com.
Hours: 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday, 9 a.m. to midnight Saturday.
Alcohol: Full bar.
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